Here’s an interesting question I get sometimes, about when or whether to use cleansing oil or cleansing balm. I should say that I’m a proponent of using both, because I’m a proponent of double cleansing. It’s the one facet of the Japanese skincare routine I started with, that I maintain and it seems to be a pretty popular practice or notion these days as well, to ensure your skin is properly clean.
However, what would you use as your first step of the double cleansing routine? Years ago, I’d have unhesitatingly said “Cleansing oil as a one step process to remove makeup and dirt from skin”. But in the past 2 years, my answer would be “Cleansing balms because they feel more gentle on skin”
So naturally, I get people asking me which I prefer and why did I stop using cleansing oils when they’re so much more convenient. I hope to explain myself here 🙂
Should I use Cleansing oil?
Do note the difference between a cleansing oil and the oil cleansing method. I know of many who are fans of the latter (a DIY cleansing method involving various oils and a hot flannel) but I’m not. I tried it once with olive oil and it was not only messy, it broke me out. Perhaps I did it wrongly, I don’t know, but don’t ask me to give it another go. I never will. Period.
Popular types of cleansing oils would be those that go on dry skin and emulsify when water is added. A popular brand would be Shu Uemura, the bestselling item in the brand, and one I know many people love. I’ve used many brands over the years and you can read the whole repository here. My favourite is the Kose Softymo cleansing oil which I used to stock up in Hong Kong. They’re very affordable and they work very well.
So, should you use a cleansing oil? My answer would be, why not? It’s convenient. The oil literally melts and lifts off makeup so it serves as a one-step makeup remover and cleanser in one. The trick to using a cleansing oil, to me, is this:-
- Use enough product – do not skimp. Use enough to have a fairly thick layer on your skin. If this means you have to use more product, do. Or switch to a more affordable cleansing oil. The recommended use is at least 3 pumps. I bet most of you use less 😛
- Massage and emulsify properly – be sure to massage the oil all over your face for a few minutes before properly emulsifying it with warm water. If you don’t emulsify it properly, it will stick to the skin and can cause you to break out.
However, from my own experience, let me warn you that cleansing oils can be potentially drying to the skin if you use it daily as I used to. It’s not something you notice immediately, but I realised it over time, and I realised that this maybe because cleansing oils claim to deep-cleanse your skin.
With regular use, the drying effects of cleansing oil resulted in my skin breaking out as well, and becoming dehydrated. So, I eventually stopped using cleansing oils altogether, as a daily cleanse. However, I do keep a small bottle in my travel bag because when you’re travelling, it can come in very useful as a one-step first cleanse. I still don’t use it very regularly, and when I do, I use a washcloth (after emulsifying, I remove using a wash cloth which gets my skin cleaner more quickly).
Based on feedback I get, cleansing oils appear to work well or perhaps, better for those who have oilier skin, who could benefit from regular deep cleansing. If you use heavier makeup, you may also benefit from using a cleansing oil because it ‘melts’ and lifts off makeup better than a makeup remover. But if you have drier skin, then you may find that a cleansing oil may cause you to break out, in which case, I’d venture a suggestion that it may be due to the drying effects of using a cleansing oil regularly.
Who will prefer using cleansing oils:-
- Those who use heavy makeup regularly
- Those who prefer a one-step makeup remover and cleanser in one
- Those who have oilier skin
Should I use a cleansing balm instead?
My introduction to cleansing balms is a recent one but fortuitous. When I decided to drop cleansing oils from my routine, I needed an alternative to a first cleanse and cleansing balms appeared on my radar. I quickly set up my cleansing balm repository, which is a work in progress 😀
A cleansing balm is quite literally a cleanser in a more solid balm form, that you similarly apply all over your skin, massage in and then remove. Some cleansing balms will emulsify upon contact with water (e.g. The Body Shop Camomile butter, Clinique Take The Day Off cleansing balm) or claim to be removable with water (e.g. Bobbi Brown Extra Balm Rinse) but most don’t, and that includes my personal fave, Antipodes Grapeseed Butter Cleanser.
If you are used to using a cleansing oil, the first thing you will notice is how much harder or more troublesome it is to remove the product and that puts many people off. The secret therefore is a warm wash cloth or face flannel. The trick to using a cleansing balm for me is this:-
- Use enough product – like cleansing oils, you need enough product to massage into your skin for a proper cleanse. Do not skimp, or just get something more affordable.
- Use a warm wash cloth to remove – Instead of trying to emulsify the product or remove with only water (and potentially risk not properly removing the product) use a warm wash cloth to remove the product from your skin.
From personal experience, I’d say that having drier skin now than I did before, I find that my skin accepts a cleansing balm more comfortably. It still cleanses my skin well, but it has a heavier and sometimes more oily texture, that comforts drier skin better. Also, thanks to cleansing balms, I’ve discovered the use of a wash cloth or face flannel in my skincare routine and I swear, it’s quite literally changed my skin 180°!
The downside to using cleansing balms is the hassle (not everyone likes using a face cloth) and the inconvenience (I find it doesn’t clean off makeup as well as cleansing oils do, and it’s hard to remove eye makeup so I still use a makeup remover or cleansing water before hand). I know of oily skinned ladies who also enjoy using a cleansing balm so I might venture the suggestion that a cleansing balm is more suited to most skin types, and particularly those who have drier skin, provided you are willing to put up with the inconvenience.
Who will prefer using cleansing balms:-
- Those who do not use heavy makeup regularly
- Those who are prepared to use a wash cloth/face flannel in their skincare routine
- Those who have drier skin
Cleansing Oil or Cleansing Balm: Which is better?
Neither and both will be my answer! 😀
Use whichever makes you and your skin feel most comfortable. There’s no need to follow the crowd. If everyone in your peer group is using cleansing oils but you feel that it’s breaking you out or you don’t like the tightness and dehydration that you feel after that, switch to a cleansing balm and see how you like it.
Ditto cleansing balms. They are all the rage right now in so many blogs that you may feel that you’re missing out by not using it (and you are! 😛 ) but if you don’t like the hassle that comes with using a cleansing balm then don’t.
I have met some people who look a little shamefaced when they tell me they use a cleansing oil instead of a balm and I tell them “Hey, that’s fine! Use a product that you are comfortable with because that will ultimately keep you in your routine.” and there’s nothing to be ashamed of, because you’re still taking care of your skin, just using different products. Ultimately, that’s all that matters 🙂
Cleansing oil or cleansing balm – which are you using and which do you prefer?
I started out with cleansing oils and then moved on to cleansing balms. Having used both rather extensively, I can safely say they’re both different yet similar. If you use a waterproof sunscreen often (I’d say daily but I know some of you cheat) then it’s quite important to have a first cleanse with either an oil or a balm to lift it off, because some of those can really stick to the skin!
Paris B
Hey Paris, what an informative post! I am all about cleansing balms. I find cleansing oils messier to use and more drying. For the moment, my go-to do-it-all is the Clinique one. It’s on its last leg, and I’ll have to repurchase soon. I use the Omorovicza one as a treat. I also have the Emma Hardie one, but that’s more like a second cleanse.
Glad you found it informative Sunny 🙂 Oh and thanks for confirming that you find cleansing oils drying on skin too! I thought I was going crazy, but after switching to balms and cream cleansers, I knew I wasn’t 😀 I’m only just going to dig into the Omorovicza one. It’s going to be my treat for finishing up either the Bobbi Brown or Clinique balms 😉
Finally! Someone explained the difference to me! THANK YOU.
I think I’ll stick to Cleansing Oils-for now. I don’t use them daily, as I don’t need to remove makeup daily, because I don’t wear makeup every day. I usually use the foaming oil cleanser from A-Derma now daily, or the Avene Creamy Cleanser.
LOL! Just based on my experience with them Tracy 😉 I think cleansing oils are great for makeup removal. So efficient and so quick! No fussing around with 3 different products LOL 🙂 I still sneak in an oil when I’m feeling lazy 🙂
Hi Paris,
I’ve tried cleansing oils, the Omorovicza cleansing balm, and a cleansing cream from Pai which also involved a washcloth or muslin. I do have combination skin and I currently use the Tatcha cleansing oil which I don’t find to be drying. I love how relaxing the washcloth and balm feels especially at the end of a long day, but I read somewhere that applying a warm washcloth to the face can cause broken capillaries. I am terrified of those! Mine seem to be multiplying by the day. 😉
Hiya Lana 🙂 I’ve been very curious about that Tatcha cleansing oil because so many people rave about it! It is pretty pricey and so is shipping so I haven’t tried anything from the brand but it doesn’t stop me being curious 😉 I have been using the washcloth method for almost 2 years now with no problems of broken capillaries. The trick is not to use a HOT cloth, but just a warm one and not to rub too vigorously on the skin. Hot cloths will cause problems in the long run and even dry out the skin!
I have used a warm wash cloth for over 40 years and I haven’t had any problems
Read my mind. I use both 🙂 I’m quite happy with my Shu cleansing oil and at the same time, I love cleansing balms too 🙂 I usually alternate between the two. It’s funny you mention cleansing oil to be drier because I find cleansing balms to be drier because they deep-cleanse MORE? Or maybe the hot water is drying?
I think it’s the hot water (shouldn’t be using hot but warm water ok? 😛 ) that’s drying. For me, perhaps I found the oil drying because I was using it daily. It was supposed to be a one step cleans all after all! Then I realised I couldn’t 😛
I used to have this problem with drugstore and department store brand cleansing oils. I feel the breakouts are due to the harsh detergent that is incorporated to allow squeaky clean removal and also many contain pore-clogging isopropyl palmitate (I think it’s an emulsifier).
I’ve switched to a specialist cleansing oil from a clinic and it doesn’t dry out my skin at all. 🙂
That’s a good point Firn. It is possible that the formula of some of the commercial cleansing oils are what causes my skin to feel dry. I do know that some formula cause me to break out. I have heard that some brands that are pricier feel better on skin. Interested to try, except I’m afraid to in case a) I like it or b) it dries my skin out anyway! 😛 Glad you’ve got one that works!
I use both oil and balm, Paris. I like to use cleansing balm to massage my face properly and I usually do that at night. Probably twice a week. I find that it helps with blood circulation and my face looks better. I have normal skin, sometimes combination oily, so none of them dry out my skin. I’m enjoying a budget friendly cleansing oil by Biore at the moment but I do splurge on my cleansing balms 🙂
Totally agree with you about balms and massaging the skin, Lily. I find it therapeutic especially after a long day! 🙂 Ah you’re lucky you can use that Biore cleansing oil. Broke me out big time 🙁
Since I have on my sink top both bottles of cleansing oil (Bobbi Brown’s and Shu’s brown bottled one which is more beneficial for older skin, so said the SA) and a tub of cleansing balm (Clinique’s), I use them interchangeably as the 3rd step in the cleansing routine. I am trying to finish to the end the Bobbi Brown cleansing oil so that’s my current constant. I must say, I like both the oil and balm, so there’s no particular preference here.
However, before the cleansing oil, there’s eye make up remover and then cleansing water and then only the cleansing oil (with a flannel). But I must I finish off with my absolute old and reliable faithful, Cetaphil.
Admittedly, I cheat and skip steps 1 and 2 on workout (after work) days. I remove as best I can, some of the make up with make up remover sheets before going for workouts. The sweat and towel do the rest of steps 1 and 2 before I go home and end the day with steps 3 and 4.
Hiya JK, I remember you once saying that you couldn’t stray far from your Shu oil 😀 Like you, I too practice 3 (or is it 4?) step cleansing with the eye makeup remover, then cleansing water, then cleansing balm and then a cleanser! But when I try telling people that, their eyes glaze over after eye makeup remover 😛 So these days I don’t bother telling people my routine anymore. No one gets that I need a 4 step vs just 2 step cleansing process! Well, except you evidently 😉
I use cleansing balm..clinique one is my favorite for makeup removal and Clarin’s extra comfort one for days when I don’t have any makeup on..both are amazing..though clarin’s one has been discontinued 🙁 I wish they would bring it back!
Oh boo! I didn’t know Clarins had discontinued their balm, I was just about to ask you where I could get it 🙁 🙁
Personally I use cleansing oil XD. I usually wear thick make up because I need it to last all day when I am at work. Can you believe I still haven’t tried Shu Uemura’s cleansing oil?
I am currently using the cleansing oil sold at SaSa, much better price plus its BIG!
Personally Evan, I don’t think the Shu Uemura oil is really all that, not with the great budget options available in the market so no loss right there! 😉
Oh man, I wish this post had been around when I was first getting into skincare. I didn’t realise the difference between cleansing oil and well, cooking oil. When a sales assisstant gave me samples of the Shu Uemura oil to try and it started foaming, I was really surprised! I liked it, but it’s so much messier than a balm. Balms 4eva x
hahaha! Cooking oil! I actually did slather cooking oil (olive oil) on my face because people said it was cheap and good. Bad mistake! Broke me out so badly >.< So yes, there's a difference hehe... Happy that you're a balm gal just like me! What's your fave?
Curse the world wide web of misinformation, I too have put olive oil on my face. Don’t go there kids! I was recently tempted by reading success stories of using pure honey as a face mask, but luckily thought better of it. Who are these people these things work for?! And what state are their bathrooms in, I would like to know. To answer your question, I swear by the Eve Lom balm, despite it’s ridiculous price. It’s a running project to find something as good, or better, for less money. Your review of the Antipodes balm has that up next on my list 😉
Oh Lordy! Someone who understands what I’ve gone through! Like you, I don’t get all the DIY skincare products that’s all the hype on Pinterest and the internet. People forget that just because something is natural or in its pure form doesn’t mean it works as skincare, or that it’s good to be put on the skin vs being ingested. I personally would rather buy a product that’s gone through tests and proper development, rather than just slapping a ‘natural’ product on my face 😛 Whatever works!
Oh, I used to use that softymo cleansing oil when I wore a lot of makeup. It was… $15CAD for me at the time? Which I think is still the same price. And it lasted FOREVER. I ended up throwing it out cause I stopped wearing makeup. It did a really good job with removing makeup. I’m currently using the Softymo speedy foam cleanser. Just can’t go wrong with Softymo!
I’ve never tried a balm before, but since I have oily skin, I’ve only been using the oils. Reading your review reminded me how much I like that cleanser. I’ll need to repurchase it sometime soon.
Yay for Softymo! They do very nice cleansers don’t they? I’ve tried their foam cleanser too and it’s nice! You know, even with oils, you can use the washcloth method too if that is something you want to try. I find that it helps clean the oils off better after I emulsify, and I don’t have to “rinse” it so much plus my skin feels much cleaner and better too 😉
I breakout from olive oils too (actually olive oils in anything I use on my face really), and reading around the web tells me that its fatty acids don’t mesh well with acne-prone skin (which is primarily mine). Personally, I’m more of a fan of cleansing oils, but not oils per se, if you get what I mean.
To elaborate, I’ve tried the Shu uemura (half of the range) one and find it doesn’t suit my skin, with that extra layer of film after cleansing and breaking me out, thus my adventures to find another one suited for me continues. A year ago (or maybe half a year? not sure heh), I recently stumbled across the Dior instant gentle cleansing oil which works great without the dryness and stuff (a plus for it to cleanse makeup). I’ll explain what I meant by it not being an oil per se. Looking through the ingredient list (with the help of COSDNA and my basic knowledge of cosmetic ingredients -after reading em for years), although it feels like an oil, it’s not (confusing but yeah ha). It has emulsifiers and oil- like ingredients/cleansing agents that makes it feel like an oil without the actual..umm..oil. But yeah, this is what works for me. Also a fan of the omoravicza cleansing balm (and the hungary mist but it pains me to admit it *stares at wallet*).
I relate about the hassle with cleansing balms haha, especially in the mornings… oh boy.. most times I just don’t know what I’m doing, just floppin’ around the washroom lol.
Hey Robert, that sounds a lot like me! The olive oil problem. These days, I stay away from anything that’s heavy with olive oil because I just know I’d break out. Like you, none of the Shu Uemura oils suited me either. The SAs kept trying to convince me otherwise by making me try all the different ones but nope! Every one broke me out 😛 I didn’t know about the Dior cleansing oil! It’s mostly because I haven’t been paying a lot of attention to cleansing oils recently, but I get what you mean about the oil not being an oil LOL Clever of you to work that out and good to know that it works for you! I don’t use cleansing balms in the morning – would never make it to work otherwise 😛 But it’s my evening treat to relax after a long day at work and helps calm me down. With that massage + facial oil massage, I’m zen! 😉
Hey Paris! Thanks for reading mind and publishing this lovely post 🙂 I love the way you peform the analysis by needs according to the product type. I have you to thank for if not for you, I will perpetually have great fear to slather cleansing oil or facial oil onto my face. Yet, today I gladly report that it’s no oily matter for me to use any of the items in my routine as part of cleansing and skincare. I have tried Softymo and have to say that it is a lovely experience not to mention fast and quick melting all the make up away at the end of the day. I also developed soft spot for Bioderma but cleansing oil is really for days when I get home late and feel a bit lazy to wipe off my make up with cotton pad. Cleansing balm is on my next cleansing wish list once I finish up my cleansing oil stash.
Cleansing balm seems to involve more work but I guess there’s no harm to spend some time at the end of the day to massage the make up and stress away. Truly, with these oil based products, I have learnt to be patient and enjoy the massaging routine. Thanks so much again for this post. Will definitely bookmark it for my future reference.
How’s your experience with Omorovicza? I am intrigued by their luxurious products, thank goodness it is hardly available here and price point wise is rather high 🙂
Hi Jennifer, glad you found it useful 🙂 And I’m glad that you’ve gotten over your fear for oils and now find them helpful for cleansing yay! 🙂 Bioderma does do a fairly good job at cleansing, I’d agree. But I never feel like my face is properly clean. I think I’m just paranoid haha 😀 As for cleansing balm, if you plan to try, try the Clinique one – it’s a nice bridge because it turns into a bit of an oil like texture on skin so it’s easier to “understand” and it can be rinsed off although I still prefer the cloth method 😉 I’m going to try the Omorovicza soon. It’s kept on the counter as a treat to remind myself that I can dig in once I finish one of the half used tubs of balm (so needless to say, I’m being very generous with my use haha!)
I prefer cleansing balm to cleansing oil. At the moment, my favourite has to be the Antipodes Grapeseed Butter. I have also tried the combination of cleansing cream and then followed by gel when i am not wearing much makeup. I use cleansing oil mainly to take of makeup. My skin tends to feel more comfortable with milk/cream cleanser as second cleanse if i use cleansing oil as first step.
Hurray! I’m a huge huge fan of the Antipodes balm. HUGE! 😀 Good point about using a creamy cleanser as the second step after an oil. At least that won’t strip our skin twice 😀
Honestly I don’t see a big difference between the two. They’re both nice to use and one is just runny, the other is thicker and warms up over time. Mmmm cleansing balms & oils ?
That’s coz you’re still young, Phil – wait till you get to my age and your skin starts drying out and going bonkers LOL! 😉 But to be fair, I think the textures depends on the product. Some balms turn into an oil (like Clinique) but some, like the Antipodes one never really soften into an oil, remaining a balm on skin. I find those to be more nourishing for my skin than those that do turn into an oil 🙂
True. Maybe it’s the age thing or the type of oils and balms I use. I have balms that are lighter in texture and nourishment than certain oil cleansers. In summertime I stick to cleansing oils and milks for a second cleanse, I do find using too much of the oil cleanser category drying overtime. I love double cleansing but in wintertime.. oil isn’t enough. I do use more balms like you. I just bought a whooping 500ml jar of darphin cleansing balm with rosewood. Addicted 😀
I’m so glad we don’t have extreme seasons here or I’d go mad with my skincare routine! With just 1 season, I already have so much crap. Can you imagine me in a 4 season country? I’d be running a pharmacy! LOL! 😀 Ooh is Darphin cleansing balm good? I just picked up Emma Hardie and it’s on its way to me 😀
So regarding what you said at first, do you think that it would be good to use a cleansing balm and a cleansing oil? Or would it be better to use a cleansing oil and then a cleansing cream?
I personally feel a cleansing balm AND a cleansing oil will be too much. Choose one or the other. You can then follow up with a cleansing cream or foam cleanser, depending on how you feel.
I thought I was the only one who felt that after I used my cleansing oil, my skin feels a bit dry! I have an oily dehydrated skin, so it’s very tricky. I like how the cleansing oil seems to remove all the impurities and cleanse my clogged pores away. But I keep wondering why do my skin feels dry afterward. And thanks to your article, I think I will start to incorporate cleansing balm into my cleansing routine as an alternate to my cleansing oil.
But, instead of using washcloth, what do you think if I use warm damped cotton pad instead? Just to save some hassle. :p
Yes you can use damp cotton pads to clean off, but it’ll get expensive in the long run! 😉
I absolutely loved the Clinique Balm. It was my go to until
I realized how inflamed my Rosacea & sensitive skin became instantly after using it. I’m completely at a loss with trying to find quality skincare routine without spending a fortune.
I’ve been using Bioderm’s milk as my makeup remover & first cleanse.
I’m in the US, so if anyone has any suggestions I’d appreciate it greatly.
Paris, I hope you are feeling better. I’m chronically ill, therefore I can empathize.
Best to you & yours.
Thank you so much for your well wishes Catluuver! I am back in the pink of health and I do hope you get better, if not feel better soon. I’ve recently been trying a very affordable brand of cleanser called Cerave. I believe you can purchase it at drugstores or on iherb. I’m using the Hydrating cleanser, which is very gentle, and seems to clean skin very well. I read some people use it as a first cleanse, although I use it as my second cleanse. Perhaps you can try that? If anything, it’s affordable, and from what I can tell, suitable for sensitive skins 🙂