Early this week, I was transported from the rainy, humid and hot tropics of Kuala Lumpur to the cooler, bustling city of Hong Kong. But the journey did not stop there.
Onwards we were transported to the Alps of the South of France to discover 2 new ingredients from the Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur region, recently incorporated into Chanel’s new serums released in their exclusive Sublimage range – Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale (available now) and Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Lumiere (available Feb 2019).
Oh there’s no need to eat yourself up with jealousy. It was all just virtual LOL! :D I was in Hong Kong, but for the rest of the journey, we were treated to the sight of the mighty Alps on video. (If you go to the Chanel highlights on my Instagram account, you can be transported too! ;) )
So let me share a little of what I took away, what is new, what is this Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory and more importantly for us all, what is the
Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale and Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Lumiere and who would benefit most from them?
Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory discoveries
I first heard about the Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory when introduced to the Blue Serum back in early 2017. It is an initiative by Chanel to identify unique hotspots of biodiversity globally, which yields botanical ingredients that they can then use in their products.
What is unique about this Open-Sky Laboratory is, as the name implies, it is an open-air research program. Ingredients Innovation and Development Director, Nicola Fuzzati, globetrots around the world, identifying new spots with unique new plants and botanical extracts. Quite a job to envy eh? :P
Open-Air Laboratories were set up in Madagascar earlier, where they research, grow and work with the Vanilla Panifolia plant used in all Sublimage products. With the Blue Serum, they worked with Green Coffee from Costa Rica, Olive from Sardinia and Lentisk from Greece.
Once the plants they intend to use are identified, they then work with the local growers to establish farms to cultivate such plants in a resourceful, pesticide and herbicide-free enviroment, as close to nature and its wild state as possible.
Not only that, this actually works to save some plants from nature. Some plants that may have been identified as being useful and are then cultivated may even be saved from extinction.
Nicola Fuzzati trained his sights on the South of France in 2010. After 8 years, studying 500 wild plants in the Southern France Alps, studying their botanical extracts, 2 plant extracts were identified with exceptional biological properties for cosmetic skincare. They are the solidago virgaurea alpestris, the core of the L’Essence Fondamentale, and anthyllis vulneraria, the heart of the L’Essence Lumiere.
What is the Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale?
Incidentally, I had already been testing the Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale serum for more than a month before this. I felt it was better I share my experience after going on this trip, and after having asked the people at Chanel some pressing questions ;) I will have it go up by next week so do look out for it then!
For now, the key botanical extract used in the Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale is from the solidago virgaurea alpestris plant. Solidago is also known as the European Goldenrod, and is a wild plant with little golden flowers. This variety identified by Chanel grows high up in the Alps – up to 2800m above sea level.
The Solidago plant (you can look it up here) has been known in ancient times, as a medicinal plant, used to heal wounds. This of course, before modern medicine came along, but I never discount the knowledge of the ancients, for they quite obviously knew more about nature than we do today!
The Solidago plant is supposed to have antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and astringent properties, and for Chanel, the plants are harvested in July-September, and left to dry naturally in the open air.
“This stops the enzymatic activities and keeps the molecules of interest intact until their extraction” explains Nicola Fuzzati.
I found this made sense. From my little foodie exploits, I’d found that drying botanicals concentrates molecules for better flavour. Think about dried mushrooms or herbs – the flavours are always more intense. It makes sense therefore, that drying the plants before preparing the extract will yield a better, more potent result. Hey, I like my food ok. I can weave a food reference into anything – try me :P
Briefly, the Solidago extract in the Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale will work on the SNEV (SeNescence Evation Factor) protein, a conductor of cellular vitality essential for youthful looking skin. What the SNEV protein does is reactivates multiplication of cells, reduces senescent (old) cells and prolongs life expectancy of cells.
The Solidago extract targets the skin in a global manner, helping to improve cellular activity and restore density to the skin. Skin is smoother, firmer and denser.
Is this anything like retinol?
I found all this sounding quite familiar. Wasn’t there already an ingredient that did this for aging skin? psst. Retinol! :P
So, being that one pesky person in the group who just cannot stop asking the awkward questions, I put it to the scientific people – how is the Solidago extract and its benefits any different from retinol, and why not just use retinol?
To her eternal credit, Armelle Sourand, Chanel’s International Director of Scientific Communications did not deck me around the ears for being so impertinent :P
As she explained, yes, the effects do sound impressively like what we will get from using retinol. But the solidago extract offers a more global effect to the epidermis, targeting keratinocytes as well as demal fibroblasts that produce collagen.
The Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale is also called the Ultimate Redefining Concentrate, because that’s what it does. Redefine your skin.
I will be able to tell you that it is less harsh on skin to begin with. But I’ll save my story for the full review. You don’t want to miss that right? :P
What is the Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Lumiere?
The second botanical extract identified by the Chanel Open-Sky Laboratory is the anthyllis vulnenaria (kidneyvetch), another medicinal plant.
Also a very small flowering plant, it is gathered in June-September and dried before extraction.
What it does is work on the SESTRINE-2 protein, that is an anti-stress shielf protecting skin from premature aging and regulates cutaneous pigmentation.
The Anthyllis extract boosts skin resistance to oxidative stress, and regulates skin pigmentation. Effects are a more even skin tone and more radiant skin with better texture. Tell me a woman who doesn’t want that! :D
The Chanel Sublimage L’Essence Lumiere is also called the Ultimate Light-Revealing Concentrate, because that’s that this does.
Is this anything like Vitamin C?
I’m pesky remember? And because I’m a huge user of Vitamin C serum, I had to ask if this serum is anything like a Vitamin C serum. You have to admit that on paper, the results sound very familiar.
Well, as Armelle Sourand gently explained, it appears familiar but it too offers a more global approach to skin luminosity. So, if I really wanted to, I could use them together.
But personally, I wouldn’t. I think there’s a limit to combining textures and active ingredients :P
The texture is very light. Almost like a lotion or emulsion, that sinks right into the skin, and feels very comfortable. It will be available in stores in February 2019, so I will share a little more with you a closer to the launch date – so you don’t forget all about it :P
Can you use both L’Essence Fondamentale and L’Essence Lumiere together?
Well, not together.
I don’t think your face will fall off, but the sensorial pleasure will not be as comfortable, as they are both quite substantial in texture.
Instead, as suggested by Armelle Sourand, you can use the Sublimage L’Essence Lumiere in the day to protect skin against oxidative stress and to boost radiance. Then, follow up with the Sublimage L’Essence Fondamentale in the night, for repair of skin texture and boost collagen repair.
Top up with a moisturiser to seal in all that goodness into your skin.
A point to note is this. The L’Essence Fondamentale and L’Essence Lumiere are part of the Chanel Sublimage skincare range. This is a range of skincare generally targeted at more mature skin, and a slightly older demographic. The textures therefore reflect this.
Textures are heavier, creams are richer, ingredients are more potent. I enjoy such textures, because my drier and older skin appreciates it better. But I will honestly tell you that you will have to be of a particular age-group to best appreciate it. Let’s just say that if you’re below 30 years old, look elsewhere :P
Personally I can tell you that when I use the L’Essence Fondamentale, I don’t follow up with the Sublimage cream, because even I find it a little too much for my skin. Instead, I opt for a cream in a different brand that has a slightly lighter texture. It just feels more comfortable.
Naturally also, it is more pricey. Hold on to your jaw now….
PRICE: RM,1867 | US$425 for 40ml
WHERE TO BUY: Chanel counters and beauty boutiques
Now, pick up your jaw.
Which of these new serums interest you most?
When I asked this question on Instagram, over 60% picked the L’Essence Lumiere. I guess skin luminosity is a big deal! But I’m curious to know which catches YOUR eye best? I hope you’ve found this helpful – there was a lot for me to digest and share! :)
Special thanks always to the wonderful Chanel PR team for Malaysia for letting me experience this amazing opportunity, Chanel PR Hong Kong for hosting such a beautiful and informative event, and to the Malaysia media friends for being so sporting and so much damn fun :)
Paris B
That was a pretty lengthy and thorough description of both serums and so very much appreciated. I’m no longer shocked by how expensive cosmetics can get rather I’d be more shooketh when I see how cheap they can be. Thank you for asking the difficult questions! Honestly, I was more excited bout your stay at Upper House! Jaw all over the floor drooling with envy and then some. For years I’ve been contemplating staying there and totally regretted not doing it before I went and got knocked up and kissed my globetrotting gallivanting days goodbye.
Thanks for not screaming “HAIYO SO EXPENSIVE” at me LOL! :D But you are right. These days, prices don’t shock me much, especially if I know which brand it is, and which range it sits in. Sublimage is Chanel’s premium range after all, and prices reflect it. It’s about the same price as a regular La Mer serum I believe. The Upper House was lovely. Huge considering it is in the middle of land-starved Hong Kong, and has beautiful views. But the whole place was so dark, I almost tripped coming down the escalator (would have been quite an end to an epic trip!) and my room was very warm for some reason so I woke up with heavy heads both mornings. Sigh… Still, it was beautiful and I’m glad I had the opportunity to stay there (not on my own account! I wouldn’t pay – just saying ;) )
Whoa! They are massively expensive! I stick to retinoids and vitamin C, they are “global” enough for my skin (and my wallet!). Tretinoin after all is the gold standard, and dirt cheap in comparison. :-)
Yes they are! It’s Sublimage, it’s sort of expected. I’d have been shocked if it was anything less HAHA! :D But I know what you mean, and I personally feel the same way. I suppose there’s just something for everyone out there, so if people feel like splurging or believe in the product, they can, and the rest of us mortals can use something else that works for us that may not break our bank ;)
Thank you for the thorough walk through these two serums and ingredients Paris ? The hotel you stayed in looked breathtaking!
Do you know what they mean by ‘global approach’? That makes no sense to me… Retinol and vitamin C isn’t only for one population/ethnic group of people in the world lol!
In saying that, I would like to try the Lumiere serum *sigh…
Can’t wait to hear more of your thoughts on these two serums ????
It seems that the emojis in my comment turned into question marks lol
Sorry if they confused you! :P
LOL no worries! For some reason, emojis just don’t show up on my site. I’ve tried tweaking everything, but it still doesn’t work so now when I see lots of ? in people’s comments, I know enough that it isn’t a question LOL!
Thank you Sylvia! The hotel was stunning! I was like a little kid running around opening drawers and looking at everything haha! I love doing that in hotels! As for the “global approach” I think that’s marketing speak for “not only targeting one thing”, not in the sense of global like the world haha! :D I think what she meant was that unlike retinol/Vit C which are proven to do certain things, these new ingredients they have do those, and more to strengthen the skin, hence the more global approach. Will definitely be sharing very soon! :)
I’m so happy to see a full review from you on these two new Chanel products. I tried the Essence Fondamentale and admit it is very nice, but I wasn’t as impressed with it as I was with the Sublimage Eye Cream (not the gold one, the regular one). In the world of super high-end skin-care and cosmetics, Chanel does it best. Personally, I’m a derm, medical girl, but if I had extra thousands to throw at this brand I would in a second !
Thanks for the link to the yellow flower. I live in the French/Swiss Alps and will be on the look-out for “Solidago” next summer on my mountain hikes.
Maybe if I rub a few petals on my skin, I’ll get the same effect :°))
Hi Kristine, how very lucky that you live at the Alps! Wouldn’t I love to view them in person one day, and maybe pick my own solidago flowers and rub them all over too! LOL :D I have a review of the Fondamentale serum up already, which as you say, is nice. But it’s certainly a luxury product from a luxury brand, and that comes with its attendant price tag :)