I am a very big proponent of wearing sunscreen (SPF50 at minimum, don’t try anything less) everyday, rain or shine, indoors or outdoors. I always pick sunscreen as my must-have skincare product because you cannot have too much sunscreen, and it has been proven to slow down skin aging caused by UV rays. By now, I think most people are aware of the benefits of wearing sunscreen (whether they choose to is another matter).
Yet, for those who use sunscreen as a defence against dark spots (not as a Defence against the Dark Arts – there’s a difference 😛 ) you might wonder why you still get dark spots or pigmentation spots despite all your efforts. I used to wonder the same, because dark spots and pigmentation spots are my nemesis.
Then I learnt the sad truth – Even regular use of sunscreen may not stop you from getting dark spots. Bummer! 🙁
The reasons for dark spots or pigmentation spots showing up can be attributed to a few reasons, some of which are within our control, and some which aren’t. I am an example of someone who is very diligent about wearing sunscreen, and who still sports dark spots or pigmentation on my skin. At one time, I found it very frustrating. Why, despite my diligence, was I still getting all these pigmentation spots?
Insufficient use of sunscreen
One reason might be due to insufficient use of sunscreen. For testing purposes in a lab, I read that they use 2mm of sunscreen on an inch of skin. Try wearing that outside all over! I use a lot of sunscreen by most approximations. 1 length of my middle finger on each part of my face. Most people I know use far less. I have seen people use the same amount as they would a moisturiser. That is actually insufficient. That said, even the amount I use isn’t necessarily optimum, but it’s a lot.
The rule of thumb is approximately 1 teaspoon of sunscreen just for your face. It is a lot of product, and can feel uncomfortable, which is why I expect, most people don’t use too much. Also, I often receive complaints that a sunscreen product is too thick or too greasy or too uncomfortable. In those situations, I can do little but shrug and say, “Find a product that you find comfortable” because there are so many different formulations out there these days, its possible to find something you are comfortable using in generous quantities.
If you feel that it’s too expensive to run through sunscreen so quickly, try looking for something more affordable. Here in Malaysia, we have access to many Japanese brand sunscreens, which are affordable and easily available in the local pharmacies. My experience is that the Japanese formula are not only more comfortable, they tend to offer better protection. That said, it is quite a blanket statement as it comes down to what the ingredients are and what your skin can tolerate, but it offers you an affordable place to start.
Insufficient SPF protection
I don’t wear anything less than SPF50. In fact, I won’t even look at a sunscreen that has anything less than SPF50. That is however, my personal comfort level, simply due to where I live. Perhaps, if you live where the sun barely shines, you might feel that SPF30 is enough. But I wouldn’t do anything less. I see products claiming to be sunscreen with just SPF15 protection and I wonder why they even bother 😛 Also, I know of many people who are happy relying on moisturiser with SPF or makeup. If you ask, I’d say that’s insufficient. But since no one is, I say, do whatever you want – just don’t complain if the dark spots and fine lines hit 😛
Failing to reapply sunscreen
This is something I am guilty of. I am often asked how I reapply my sunscreen in the day. I could lie, but my honest answer is that I don’t. If I am at home, I might top up my sunscreen in the middle of the day. But if I’m out and I have a full face of makeup on, I don’t top up my sunscreen. My defence is that I am indoors a lot. It really is no excuse, because UV rays are everywhere, but I kid myself into thinking that that makes it more acceptable 😛
The only proper way to reapply your sunscreen, is to remove your makeup, wash your face, re-do your skincare, top up your sunscreen and then re-do your makeup. Not all of us have that sort of luxury. And honestly, how many of us can be bothered? These days, there are powder sunscreens that you can apply over makeup. I have seen quite a few in the market, whether coming in a loose or pressed powder form. I personally have not tried them but if you have, please do share your views on them!
Heat can cause dark spots too
It’s not only the UV rays that cause our skin to develop melanin, apparently, even heat can cause melanin overproduction. Not a good sign for those of us who live where it’s so hot! But I found this interesting, because the last few times I went to the beach, I was very diligent about my sunscreen application. I’d top up every 2 hours and I made sure I had on a big sun hat, and stayed in the shade. But I still came home with some new dark spots. Sigh.
A little research told me that the heat can also stimulate melanin production, and this might explain the new spots. Should I have just tossed my sunscreen away? No. Imagine how much worse it could have been had I not worn any sunscreen at all!
Pigmentation problems can be hereditary or genetic or age related
Here is one factor you can’t control – your genetic makeup. Some of us are predisposed to getting dark spots. Look at people in your family. If someone in your family has a problem with hyperpigmentation or dark spots, there is a chance you might have it too. I found out recently also, that Asians (of oriental descent) were also more likely to get dark spots around the tops of the cheeks. Sometimes, this is age related – they appear or appear darker as you get older. Also, the fairer you are, the higher the chances of you getting these dark spots, because any change in melanin production is more noticeable.
Should you stop using sunscreen daily?
Oh Heavens, no!
While you may not be able to avoid getting dark spots, you may still be able to slow it down, and to reduce its severity. I know I fall into this category, and if anything, it makes me more diligent than ever about wearing sunscreen. Every new dark spot I thwart is a notch on my belt! 🙂
Sunscreen isn’t only for preventing dark spots, it also protects your skin from being damaged by the UV rays. UV damage can result in lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone, sunburn and potentially skin cancer. So think of sunscreen not as a beauty product, but a health product. You might still develop the odd freckle, sun spot or pigmentation spots. But think of how much worse it could be otherwise! 🙂
For me, how I “treat” my dark spots now, is to use a Vitamin C serum. I don’t use whitening or brightening products, and I only focus on using Vitamin C in the day, and an AHA or retinol product in the evening, aside from keeping to a hydrating skincare routine. For me, this has helped keep my dark spots at bay and combined with sunscreen, it might even be preventing new ones from popping up 🙂
But ultimately, as I often tell people, if it really bothers me, there is always concealer LOL! All hail the magic of makeup! 😀
Do you get dark spots despite wearing sunscreen?
Do you even wear sunscreen? Come on, be honest now! 😉
Paris B
Paris, I read an article a while back that claimed that the sun isn’t the only culprit in causing dark spots. The article said that heat also plays a factor in the formation of dark spots. I have found two that claim to reduce heat caused by IR (indirect radiation from the sun). The first is COOLA 70%+ organic, sun silk drops, http://www.coolasuncare.com. It comes in a dropper bottle. It is not oily nor is it drying. It protects against UVA/UVB/IR/HEV. I wear it when I am staying home as it’s only SPF 30. When I’m out and about I use a Korean sunscreen. It’s called make, p:rem. It claims to reduce heat caused by IR. This is UV defense, Blue Ray sun gel SPF 50+PA++++. Their web address is, http://www.makeprem.com. FYI, I’m not employed by either company. I’m fortunate not to have dark spots on my face. But, I have a couple on my upper chest. In addition, the two sunscreens I have written about is compatible with foundation. Best of luck to you. Be well. Love, Jan
Thank you for the recommendations Jan 🙂 I’d heard of Coola before this, but not Makeup Prem. Definitely very interesting, and I’d only recently read about the heat thing too! Now that will be a big challenge for me since it’s perpetually hot here haha! And recently, even more so! You are indeed fortunate not to be plagued by dark spots! I don’t know whether to be pleased or to rail at my fair toned skin LOL! 😀
I don’t think a lot of people know how much sunscreen they should use to achieve the level of protection they are getting out from their SPF. I don’t think that the people are educated on the amount of sunscreen needed to be uses.
Even the beauty consultant don’t know the importance of using the adequate amount. Case in point, I was at a Kiehl’s counter testing out their suncreen and I tried about a pie size of it on the back of my hand. I told the lady that the texture is rather thick and a tat tacky. Her reply was that I used too much, that amount is enough to cover my whole face. I told her this is only enough for one cheek and she claims that their product have special technology that is enough to cover the whole face.
This needs to be changed, companies should educate their staff on matters like this. I personally do find most of the BA do not have much of skincare knowledge and their focus is on just selling.
You know what? You are ABSOLUTELY RIGHT, MC! Most people do not know how much to use, because of that “fear” of putting on too much. We are always taught to not put on too much of anything, so when you are suddenly told to put on more sunscreen, it becomes an alien concept. It doesn’t help either, when brands come out with products that are so lightweight, and spreads so easily, that people think they can just smear on a tiny drop and be done. The problem I feel, is that cosmetics companies treat sunscreen as a beauty product, not as a health product and they sell it accordingly. I find it very hard to listen to what the beauty staff tell me these days, because I just want to correct them all the time 😛 Hence, shopping online is always the better bet for me before I blow a blood vessel, or end up pissing off someone at the counter LOL! Stick to how much you use. And for the record, the Kiehl’s sunscreen is very thick and oily!
Which is weird, considering they could sell people a new tube every month instead of people nursing 50 ml for half a year. But maybe then no one would buy the expensive sunscreens anymore?
Dark spots and pigmentation spots, are also my nemesis. Genetic predisposition is also a factor implicated pathogenetic. Also, sun damage is cumulative. Back in the 70’s nobody knew about sun protection and most people thought that being red as lobsters was a badge of honor and a successful summer. Being younger then, the damage may not be seen straight away. I thing also that not all the sunscreens gives a reliable protection. Something that I noticed in my case, was the sun glasses with metal frames. They multiplied the sun exposure beneath my upper cheeks and now I have two big spots, that nothing can hide them. I have noticed that they behave differently in foundation and concealer, after some minutes, they emerge and are obvious. Big hugs from Greece!
Oh yes, my Mom was very diligent about making me wear sunscreen when I was younger, because I was taking swimming lessons. But because I hated the smell of the sunscreen so much (back then we didn’t have many choices) I would find ways and means to not use them when I got older. So my problem could well be cumulative from when I was younger too. As with many of us – we all think we are invincible when we’re young right? 😀 And you made a good point about reflection although I didn’t think that about sunglasses! To hide pigmentation better, try a colour corrector, then a concealer before applying a thin layer of powder or foundation to set. It helps it stay hidden longer 🙂
The spots are sadly in the center of my cheeks and even with peach corrector and foundation, after some minutes, they emerge and are obvious like two grey dirt. I ask my dermatologist for treatment ( I have used hydroquinone cream, without spectacular results ) and he told me that after laser treatment, they disappear, but they come back and then nothing can eliminate them. ? Until new treatment is found, I will live with them. Let this be, the only health issue that will concern me!
You are right Amalia – if this is the only health issue you face then so be it! At least it’s mostly cosmetic 🙂 Mine are on my cheekbones, and sometimes, concealer don’t work very well either. I also find that some blush colours make them look worse e.g. a red or deeper red shade. Peach or light pink normally looks a bit better and sometimes even helps make it look lighter 🙂 I was also told a similar thing about laser, but it is so expensive, and was going to take so long, I just decided it wasn’t worth it for the “chance” of it going away.
Well, it was because of you that I had started diligently applying sunscreen. I started late since I only discovered your blog in December 2012. Better late than never as they always say. LOL. I apply 1 teaspoon of sunscreen too and like you, I learned not to be stingy when applying sunscreen on my face. I also apply Vitamin C during the day and AHA or Retinol products at night. Sunscreen is a product I apply whether I am indoors or outdoors. So far so good but as I am not prone to dark spots since my skin is rather tanned, I cannot really vouched that diligent application of sunscreen had kept my dark spots at bay. But like you had mentioned before in your earlier blog postings, sunscreen is the best anti-aging device and no other products comes close to it. But I am still amazed that quite a number of women I know either hardly uses a separate sunscreen or only relies on the SPF in their moisturisers and foundation 🙂
There are benefits to having a deeper skintone Victoria – for one, pigmentation spots are less of a problem as melanin is already naturally present in large amounts! LOL! But you could also be lucky 😀 Also, I too am boggled by the people who don’t wear sunscreen daily, and who find it a chore. Granted, it’s an extra step, and may cost extra money, but to keep aging at bay, I’d rather that than have to pay more for treatments to come 😀
I think where the sunscreen is manufactured and marketed are some of the aspect that I will take into consideration when choosing. I tend to avoid US because the FDA doesn’t permit the new generations of organic sunscreens approved by Japan and Europe which is quite baffling since they passed the stringent tests outlined by these two countries. US sunscreens have poor UVA rating as indicated by PA+++. I read that the FDA is underfunded with shortage of budget and staff hence the testing dragged on forever but I am not too sure about it. Kiehl’s is from US as far as I know, not impressed by their sunscreen, I rather have cheaper and more effective Japanese brands sunscreen.
You have made an excellent point Margaret! I too avoid sunscreen from USA brands. They are far inferior in terms of protection and formula I find. Kiehl’s surprises me because they are under L’Oreal and therefore have access to L’Oreal’s European research but you are right, it is probably their US rules that prohibit a better formula being released. La Roche Posay sunscreens are actually quite good. Thus far, Europe and Japan work for me, with European formula being the best my skin takes too. But it isn’t easy to get a good European sunscreen locally and it cane sometimes be too creamy for most people. I find Japanese ones good, but the alcohol content tends to be too high, so it can be drying in the long run.
Additional: if you want to remove melasma and dark spot, I recommend tranexamic acid for topical application which is found in mainly Japanese and Taiwanese products like Shiseido whitening range and Naruko. Tranexamic acid and niacinamide also complement each other in reducing facial hyperpigmentation.
Thank you for the suggestion! Interestingly, I used to use the Shiseido White Lucent range and I found it quite good. But ultimately, as with all whitening products, very drying. I’ve since given up using any especially since I now know that my dark spots aren’t necessarily UV based but possibly genetic
I do wear sunscreen, diligently everyday and reapply when I get the chance to wash my face.
Lucky for me, make up isn’t compulsory and my skin is not too bad to start with. I do get pimples now and then, leaving behind red/pinkish marks.
I realize the marks lighten a lot faster when I put on sunscreen diligently and I use quite a lot on my face and décolletage. I use up one bottle of 40ml sunscreen in a little over a month. So I always have 2 backup sunscreens at all time.
I step up on sun protection when I go on trips, often slapping on more on my arms / legs throughout the day, and applying it on my travel partners if they want. Therefore, I always bring a spare bottle with me in case the current bottle runs out.
I have some sun spots around my eyes when I wasn’t using sunscreen diligently for two months in Australia and thank goodness, it’s still the same, if not lighter as I started using sunscreen diligently together with lightening serums
Yep! If we can’t remove it totally, at the very least, we can keep it from getting worse! That’s my goal 😀
You are a good girl Kate! 😀 I tend to be more diligent only when I’m by the beach or out in the sun for long hours haha! Yeah, don’t practice what I preach 😛
You are scaring me, Paris. Let me first thank you for the educational post and great research before I start telling you why I’m starting to worry.
I definitely do not apply sunscreen at home. When I do, it is a sheer layer like what you’ve described (i.e. same amt as moisturizer). And then you mentioned about how heat can cause melanin production. OMG – Singapore is as hot as Malaysia lor. 🙁
Do I get dark spots? Well, I didn’t get any until I hit mid-30s. I’m seeing tiny spot, like the size of a dot on random places. Not many, perhaps not more than 5 on my face as of now, but I do expect more to come up as I continue to age.
I doubt I’ll start using sunscreen indoors unless I start seeing more damage. Too lazy. 😛
Oh, I know. I can use moisturizer with SPF. Not as great as dedicated sunblock, but better than none. 🙂
Haha well Nicole, you aren’t alone! Most people I believe, will do the same as you, and the thing about dark spots is that it depends on our skin, genetics and so much more! Being fair always comes with its attendant problems. Also, UV isn’t only from the sun – also from lights and yes, even from our computer screens. So, maybe it’s time to start thinking about putting on a wee bit more, if only so you hold the dark spots at bay 😉
Ok. I just bought some gel-based sunblock. Think that would be more comfortable to put on when indoor. I’ll be diligent – will try to. 🙂
Good girl! 😉
I’ve learnt from experience that chemical exfoliation and use of glycolic mask on affected areas plus daily use of sunscreen work together to lighten and even remove new spots. This works for me each time I take a vacation in summer and spend hours outdoors if I work on the spots as soon as I discover them. It has also helped control my pigmentation while I’m living in the middle east where the UV index is extreme all year round. If anyone is interested, try the glycolic mask from Caudalie which is available in travel size at Sephora. Because the chemical exfoliation and glycolic acid are drying, the use of moisturiser immediately after that is a must.
Thanks for the excellent tips Tessa! 😀 I do use chemical exfoliations too but perhaps I should step up the use of a glycolic mask as well. Like you, I do like the Caudalie one too – gentle, but very effective!
I never go out without sunscreen, and always wear a lip balm with SPF after noticing my lips darkening from sun exposure. I’ve yet to experience any serious pigmentation but sunscreen has definitely made a huge difference with protecting my skin from painful flares and irritation. Just a question about application: I sometimes see advice to avoid putting on sunscreen around the eye area. I understand that the skin there is much more delicate than the rest of the face area, but wouldn’t it still be susceptible to sun damage?
Yes the skin around the eyes will be, and even more so as it’s thinner. Most sunscreen can irritate the eyes which is why you are advised to keep it away from the eye area. For example, sometimes, if I sweat a lot, and sweat mixed with sunscreen drips into my eyes, it can sting. That said, I live on the edge a little 😛 So, it’s just me, but I apply my sunscreen all the way around my eyes – not on my eyes of course, but close. So far so good – but also be careful coz the formula can sometimes clog pores around the eyes, if it’s a creamier product.
Hi Paris, you wrote a really good essay about sunscreen and I agree with most of it, but I have to admit that if I stay inside my home I just don’t wear sunscreen, on a good day I’d apply my moisturizer with SPF in the same amount I use my sunscreen so I think I get some protection, but some days I don’t really care about that. Maybe I’m young and reckless or just think that indoors you receive a really minimum amount of UV exposure, the amount people say you need to get vitamin D.
On another note I have a friend who got dark spots because of birth control, after using many products she swears by Colorescience powder sunscreen, she uses a Biore one in the morning and applies religiously the powder every 2-4 hours and says that her dark spots are almost unnoticeable because of the reapplication of sunscreen. So if you want to try one I really recommend this one.
Thanks Efrain 🙂 To be fair, I know many people don’t wear sunscreen at home so you aren’t alone! 😀 I am just a little more paranoid maybe due to my own problems with my skin. Vanity, thy name is woman! haha! Thanks for sharing your friend’s recommendation! I haven’t come across it, but it’s quite interesting. There are quite a few in the market I know of, and now I’m curious about how it will/won’t mess with makeup
hormones can cause dark sin patches also.
Yes they can 🙂
I live in Canada and keep covered up because it is cold. I apply sunscreen with iron oxide because it is my understanding that some people’s dark spots can be sensitive to visible light in addition to sunlight. Right after I apply my Retin-A to my sunspots I apply the iron oxide sunscreen. Even so it seems like the Retin-A has brought out more dark spots. Confounds me. I am going to try a product that contains Arbutin that inhibits Tyrosinase which is a culprit in the fromation of dark spots. Wish me luck.
Hi, Paris! I really like your blogs as they are informative. I am in my mid 30’s and didn’t start using sunblock until 3 years ago, so yeahhhh…. I have multiple sun spots above my lips and nose. I am not really trying to get rid of them since I know getting rid of dark spots without spending a fortune on lasers or other clinical procedures is most likely not gonna work. However, I am trying very hard though to not gain more of these little monsters around my face and that’s when I became sunscreen obsessed! I put sunscreen every single day even indoors and I go crazy slapping sunblock every 2-3 hours when I am outside doing normal activities. When I go to the beach, which rarely happens (i do not like beaches as they make me feel sticky) I put sunblock almost every hour. But lately, just this month, I have noticed new dark spots around my nose and it’s making me feel so bad. I do not know if it’s my skin having a reaction to the new sunblock I am using or not because everything is the same except for my sunblock (I started using a japanese sunblock. I used to use Korean and European brands). I feel frustrated and I am really fretting.
Hi April, thank you for your kind words. While I’m no expert, what I’ve learnt from experience when new spots appear, it could be one of many factors. One could be the sunscreen – perhaps, it just offering sufficient protection. Not all Japanese brands are good, from my experience. Sometimes, the European (French for me) ones work better in certain regards. Another reason could be an underlying spot that’s only appearing now, due to previous sun exposure, and current exposure. Or, it could just be genetics rearing it’s ugly head. What you could do to help lighten it is to incorporate Vitamin C serums into your skincare routine (day routine) if you have not done so already. It helps me keep things under control 🙂 Good luck!
Has anyone tried Heliocare pills ? I just started taking it since I have read so much about it but I don’t know yet if it will work. You have to use sunscreen also but supposedly it extra help from the inside. I have worn sunscreen I stay in shade and I even wear a light jacket on hot days to cover my skin but I still get a ton of pigmentation on my arms and chest. I think it’s just the heat. Not sure what you can do about that.
I have not tried them myself, and I’m personally not sold on the concept. But there are people who say it works for them provided when not used as a replacement for sunscreen, so perhaps it does help. I’d personally take these supplements only under advisement from doctors 🙂
I use a 70 SPF sunscreen and my arms still get so many freckles and some on my calves and a few on my face, I am 76 so I guess I can attribute it to age but I hate it because I’ve never had this issue until the past few years and now I feel it necessary to avoid wearing short/sleeveless tops.