To be honest, this is actually 2 separate subjects, but I had to address them both together, for one relates to the other. This is also going to be a touchy subject, as I will effectively be saying to not support local industries, but some things have to be said.
I live in Malaysia and there is a thriving local beauty cottage industry, that is unfortunately, not premised on legitimacy nor integrity, but purely on making money. Lots and lots of money. Founders of such local brands are known as “Jutawan Kosmetik” or Cosmetics Millionaires, because they are. And they flaunt their wealth in the most ostentatious way.
* Images are used for illustration purposes only
I’ll preface this by saying that this is by no means a slur on legitimate local cosmetics businesses. How can you tell? There’s the real rub – you can’t. I could tell you that a legitimate cosmetics business will have some modicum of research behind it, or that it will have a proper ingredients list, and a proper company setup behind it, not just the face of one person flaunting their wealth and faces. Yet, as we all are aware, indie cosmetics companies often start out in someone’s kitchen, especially if they leverage on the current trend and demand for natural and organic skincare. Or they are formulated by a lab, which then sells the formula on an OEM (original equiment manufacturer) basis to be repackaged. Legitimacy therefore, is subjective and something to be earned, in my eyes.
I decided to raise this rather touchy subject, because locally, some beauty products have just been banned by the authorities for containing controlled substances. These are hydroquinone (skin lightening/whitening but can be carcinogenic) and tretinoin (treatment of acne but which can cause skin to peel). They are not banned substances per se, but may only be administered under medical advice, not sold to the general public. Prior to this, some products were banned for containing mercury (ostensibly used for skin lightening but which is also a poison).
For the most part, what I have observed over the years (these news crop up now and again) is that the creams and products that are banned usually target the one thing that local women actively seek – to lighten, or more accurately, whiten their skin. Locally, as in many parts of Asia, it is still widely perceived that fairer is better. There are ads on TV that tell you basically, that if you are fairer (or whiter) you’ll be more beautiful, more successful and be more attractive (Fair & Lovely anyone? 😛 )
It is no surprise therefore, that in the local market, whitening, or, the more politically correct term, brightening ranges of skincare bring in the bulk of a skincare brand’s income. It caters to what the people want, and it promises a whole host of things. Yet, I’ll state right here and now that I don’t use any whitening or brightening skincare. Not any more, and I’ll tell you why, based on my personal experience.
Whitening / Brightening skincare products dry out the skin
I bought into the whitening/brightening hype many years ago, when first starting out on my skincare journey. I have hyper-pigmentation, and at a more insecure time in my life, I felt I should do something to lighten or eradicate it altogether. There are a ton of products out there that promise to do so – I tried so many of them! Spot Treatment serums, Whitening serums, I’ve tried most of them at least once. Every time I walk to a beauty counter, the sales people would take a look at me, and immediately divert me to their whitening range.
Did they work?
For the most part, no. The serums from one or two brands did deliver some results (Clinique Even Better serum (old version, not the new one) and Shiseido White Lucent serum (last used in 2012) are notable), where my pigmentation appeared a little lighter, but nothing could eradicate them, despite the promises. Yet, I later realised something even more disconcerting.
My skin was getting drier and drier. Remember, this was pre-internet, and I really had nothing to go on except the advice of the sales assistants, or what I read in magazines. I was using whole ranges of whitening products, from cleanser to creams. But I eventually came to my senses, and stopped.
The one underlying common theme I experienced in all whitening/brightening skincare is that it is very drying to the skin. I believe that it is to do with the ingredients used to “whiten” the skintone, and perhaps a rather more inelegant formulation.
I raised this observation with someone in the industry once, and received a reluctant nod in response. Yes, the ingredients in whitening/brightening skincare are generally quite drying to the skin. This is why you see the newer formulas always promise a more hydrating product – but it’s only because they are now recognizing this. I noticed this 6-7 years ago, which is when I stopped cold turkey.
If you are using a whitening skincare product in your regimen, please be sure to sandwich it with hydrating serums and lotions. Not only is it better for your skin, it will also combat the drying effects of the whitening/brightening skincare product. I have since refused to try all whitening/brightening skincare products, which is why you no longer see them on my blog. I will try the makeup, and I may try the odd sunscreen which is placed in this category, but serums or lotions or creams? Nope and nope. Never going back there.
Dry skin looks dull, sallow and makes pigmentation look worse
When I stopped using these whitening products, I switched my focus to hydration. It was not long before I realised that well hydrated and moisturised skin not only looks healthy, my pigmentation problem looked less obvious. This, I believe, is because the skin cells are healthier and more plumped, and light reflects off them more evenly. So, this means my skin looks healthier and more glowy, and this makes whatever pigmentation look less obvious.
I also noticed this when using certain brands of whitening/brightening products, because about 2 weeks in, I’d notice a sallowness to my skin that was not there when I started. Interestingly, my facial skin would look darker than normal, with a yellow, sallow cast that looks rather unhealthy. My mom drew this to my attention once, and it worried me. When I stopped using the products, my natural colour eventually returned. I believe now, that it is likely due to my skin drying out without my realising it, that reflects an unhealthy pallor. If you’d like to know (cos I will name and shame, the products in question are SK-II Cellumination Aura serum and an Obagi serum prescribed by a doctor who refused to acknowledge the effect it had on my skin. Meh! 😛 )
Whitening/Brightening Products Should not be used for the long term
If you use whitening/brightening products, I hope you realise that it isn’t a range of products you should be using for the long term. I know of people who use it for years and years, in their quest to be white and fair. But I got this advice straight from someone in the industry – whitening/brightening products are NOT meant for long term use. You are supposed to use them maybe once or twice a year, if you want, just to even out your skin tone. Not use it 365 days for years and years.
This ties back to my complaint about the products being too drying. When I mentioned it, this person told me that yes, it can be drying and further, that you should use maybe 1 cycle of products and then stop. Use something else, and then return, if you want. This is to allow your skin time to adjust and for you to repair or replenish the moisture levels of your skin.
But are you told this at the counters? Nope. No one till tell you this. I was told this years ago, and it stuck with me ever since. Why then should I want to use whitening products, that do nothing for me anyway?! You may remember the controversy with Kanebo brand skincare products in their whitening ranges, that caused people to suffer discolouration on their skin. I don’t think they’ve really recovered from that bad press. As you can see, not even the Japanese, with their high standards and quality, are immune from error, and it is notable that this was because in Japan, as in many parts of Asia, fairness of skin is a thing of beauty, and people go to all sorts of lengths to achieve that porcelain white skin.
Many local brand creams promise quick results – whitening should not be quick
Now, coming to the local creams. Many of them promise quick results, often in a few days or a week. Now, think about it. your skin cells take 28 days to renew – longer if you’re older. Most, if any changes in your skin may only be noticed in about 3-4 weeks, which is why it takes that long to try a skincare product to know if it works for you.
How do these local brand creams work so quickly then? Simple – mercury and hydroquinone. The latter is often prescribed by doctors for patients who want a sure-fire solution to their hyperpigmentation or melasma problem, aside from laser treatment. Do bear in mind that while these creams not prescribed by doctors may deliver results, they will also damage your skin. Often, irreparably. I’ve read of people experiencing what looks like chemical burns, or discoloration of the skin. Do you want to risk that?
I know I’m pretty much preaching to the choir, as most of you reading my blog won’t be the target market for these creams and cottage industry brands. To be honest, I have never even seen these products sold anywhere, because they aren’t even sold in pharmacies. Often, they are sold by way of direct selling, or in rural areas, or random pop-up booths. Yet, from what I understand, these creams do not come cheap – they can retail for over RM100 a tub. I would just tell you to get Olay creams, that retail for about the same price, and actually deliver results. Perhaps not whitening, but they give you healthier skin and have solid research behind them.
If you know of anyone using these products, do educate them. Don’t berate them or tell them they’re stupid for believing the claims. People will feel slighted and most people then dig their heels in and refuse change. Just tell them why they should not use such products that may damage the skin, and why they should instead use something more reputable. Pharmacy or drugstore products may have lower efficacy, but for the most part, they are legitimate, and should not contain harmful ingredients that can damage your health and skin.
Did you hear about the “Krim Kilo” controversy?
While reading about these local brand creams, I came across something called “krim kilo” (kilo creams) not long ago. Basically, people buy pails of creams, sold by the kilo, which they then repackage into smaller tubs for sale. Such products are widely sold on Facebook and Instagram, I’m told – just look up the #krimkilo hashtag. I did, and it scared me silly!
This is a local thing, and you can read something about it here (written in Malay) but in a nutshell, such bulk creams are packaged into little tubs e.g. 5g, which are then sold for an “affordable” RM28 a tub. 1kg of the cream costs about RM500 and this is how people become “jutawan kosmetik”.
Just imagine this. You have no idea what’s in there, no one can give you an ingredients list (and even if they did, I’d not trust a word they say), it’s unsanitary, and yet, people buy them because it’s affordable. Don’t. Just don’t. Tell your friends, your family, to stay away from these unscrupulous sales tactics. You can get effective products in the pharmacy, sometimes for an affordable price. Why use these products of unknown origins, just because a local personality endorses it? Or because your neighbour or hairdresser recommends it?
What about brands or products purportedly created by local personalities then?
Honestly, I’d stay away too. Many (not all) are repackaged OEM products. Some of these come in from China, and perhaps, are a more upmarket “krim kilo” but with the same concept. Large quantities of products of unknown origin and ingredients, are packed into tubs for sale, on its own or as a set with soaps and what they say is “sun block”, which I’d honestly not even use because it probably does nothing for your skin.
I also see many brands being peddled on Facebook and Instagram that promise all sorts of things, from whitening to lifting and firming… in one bottle! They often claim to be Swiss-made etc, and are sold at a high price. This, I’m sorry to say, is more prevalent among the Chinese community, which for some reason, places more trust in something labelled European, and comes with a high price. But I can tell you that quite often, they are just repackaged OEM products from China, or repackaged locally. I receive requests every so often to try and review these products, but I always refuse. I don’t trust them, and I always go by my gut feeling.
There is also makeup sold locally, produced en masse by factories, and merely rebranded and repackaged for sale. This is especially true of the matte liquid lipstick trend. But, I have not tried those and have no comment. I will just query the ingredients in the products, and leave it at that.
Are you just a snob, PB?
Yes I am. When it comes to putting things on my face, I am a snob. When it comes to putting a product on my blog, I’m a damned snob! I don’t just want something that works. I want something that will not harm me, my health or my skin. I’ve used products from the super high end, to the low, and really, it’s all about legitimacy, trustworthiness and efficacy. So, am I disparaging of local products because they are local?
No. If they are truly local and I can trace their origins and know what goes on, then I’m happy to give them a go. I don’t know of many local brands that I’ve personally tried (Esmeria Organics is alright, albeit basic) but I have come across quite a few new ones in recent times that I’m observing with interest.
But if they can’t give me a brand history, only have a Facebook or Instagram presence, have no certification, can’t produce me an ingredient list that makes me comfortable, costs an arm and a leg (if it’s truly local, it shouldn’t) and is only peddled through direct sales or online, then no. I look askance at them and frown on these practices.
I also always check the websites of these local brands for information. I was approached by one recently, and when I checked the website, saw they were shouting about their product being EcoCert certified. This was in large bold letters on the screen. Yet, there was no logo on the bottle, and no other information anywhere about their EcoCert status. Most companies that are certified by EcoCert proudly bear the EcoCert logo, and I have been given to understand that it is a tough certification to get. When I queried them, I was told, after a week, that ONE of the INGREDIENTS was EcoCert certified. Let me just say that doesn’t happen and my alarm bells rang so loudly, I shut them down. Yet, a search tells me that so many other bloggers have picked up on this product, and are extolling its virtues. Don’t they read, or do their research? Don’t these people have a conscience?! That bugs me most of all 🙁
[clickToTweet tweet=”Focus on having healthy skin, not fairer, whiter skin” quote=”Focus on having healthy skin, not fairer, whiter skin” theme=”style4″]
Skip the whitening/brightening. Just focus on healthy skin
I’ll let you in on a secret. If your concern is truly skin whitening/brightening, you can achieve that (marginally) by just focusing on keeping your skin healthy.
Focus on having healthy skin not fairer, whiter skin
- Keep your skin well moisturised and hydrated. Well hydrated skin is healthy skin. When your skin is well moisturised and hydrated, it will glow and you will look better. Isn’t that more important than just looking white?
- Use a good sunscreen. Don’t want dark spots from the sun? Use a good sunscreen. Not only does it protect your skin from getting dark and uneven in skin tone, it protects your skin from aging as well.
- Use a good Vitamin C serum. Vitamin C not only protects your skin against free radicals and aging, it has the added bonus of giving your skin a more even-toned, and sometimes, a slightly brighter appearance. I found that it helped very slightly, lighten some of my pigmentation as well. It also strengthens the skin, and makes it healthier.
- Use Retinol or lactic acid or glycolic acid. I have yet to find a retinol product that works for me (still looking) but I have used lactic acid and glycolic acid with great success. Not only do these acids help remove dead skin cells (thereby revealing brighter skin), they also help your skin stay healthy and strong.
The upside of having healthy skin, is that you will notice that it will look brighter. Your skin tone will be more even. And you’d have achieved it all without endangering your health, or destroying your skin.
Remember. Whiter, fairer skin is not a standard of beauty. Healthy, glowing skin is. I’d much rather have the latter, and be happy in your skin, whatever the colour.
Some of you may think I’m talking through my hat, because I am naturally quite fair, even by Asian standards, and therefore don’t know what it’s like to be tanned. It’s unfortunately (or fortunately) genetic, and I’m fair all over, not just my face. Can you imagine a whitened face, but tanned body? It just looks odd doesn’t it? 😛 That said, I have pigmentation problems, that leave me with an uneven skin tone, so I am your prime candidate for whitening/brightening/spot treatment. Yet, I still avoid it like the plague. I’ve learned to live with my flaws. However, tanned skin is not a flaw so don’t EVER let anyone tell you otherwise! 🙂
I’m not saying that you should follow what I do. If using a whitening or brightening skincare range floats your boat, go right ahead. But if you or someone you know are using these local brand random creams, please stop. That much, I am against. For everything else, it’s your choice 🙂
Do you use whitening or brightening skincare products? Have you seen these local brand creams before or know anyone using them?
I know this is a long one, so thank you for reading 🙂 Please feel free to disagree, politely of course 🙂
Paris B
I m not really a fan of using whitening skincare products. After my bad experience with shiseido white lucent serum, which makes my brown spot appear more prominent, I basically stop using whitening serum. I prefer to use hydrating serum. I do notice most whitening products tend to have drier texture. I m not really familiar with those local brand skincare though.
Although now I m using cathydoll sunscreen which contains gluthatione. I bought it due to the watery texture n cooling effect. I m also using had labo whitening cooling gel. Bought it mainly for the cooling effect too.
Interesting you should mention the cooling effect on skin (I’m not too familiar with either so have no real comments) but do note that often, these sort of cooling feeling is due to either alcohol or peppermint extract in the ingredients, the latter of which can be irritating over a long term. Just to give a little warning 🙂
Sorry to hear the Shiseido White lucent serum didn’t work for you. It was freakingly expensive wasn’t it? I remember it sort of worked for me, but not so much to lighten the spots, but to give a much more even appearance. Maybe it was lightening the rest of your face but not your spots so they stood out more haha! The thing is, a lot of people notice that whitening products feel drying, but it never occurs to them to stop – I think it’s just vanity 😛
Hi Paris, so glad that you address this issue. I’m having the same sentiment too. These unscrupulous so-called “cosmetic millionaires” feed on the masses desire to look fair. And because the demand is there, they will continue to do so. If we can educate the public on the healthy way to treat the skin, that would stop or lessen the mushrooming of this industry. I felt pity to those who really don’t know, and get sucked into buying these products. I remember back in school, I used to comment on these whitening product, and my friend who has a darker skin tone said, ‘Easy for you to say, because you are already fair..’ It struck me hard. If only I could respond to her then and say that she has a very healthy skin and that is what matters, (as opposed to my acne-prone, dry spot, sensitive skin, which happens to be a bit fair).
I second your statement on
“Whiter, fairer skin is not a standard of beauty. Healthy, glowing skin is.”
Hi Aishah 🙂 I feel so sick when I see these people hoodwinking the unsuspecting public, especially with their unsupported claims. Flashing their wealth often detracts from this, and I’d warrant that they or their families do not use any of their own products at all! I do agree that what the public needs is education. Not a constant bombarding of how to be fair, but simply, how to have healthy skin. We all have an image problem, that’s a fact. But when people are willing to do anything, just to be fair, like their favourite celebrity, it’s harder to get through. I understand how your friend feels because I’ve been fair my whole life, and when I talk about things like this, they don’t want to listen. I guess if it’s stuck in their head that they have to be fair in order to be successful and beautiful, it’ll be hard to change their mindset. We all have our own beauty – we just have to find it!
Thank you so much for the article. Pretty much sums up whats in my head all this while anyway. To be honest, if Malaysian read and educate themselves more, they will not fall for the “3 days and you will get fairer” scam.
Although I am blessed with fair skin, but I had acnes and scars, so I do get a bit desperate for the whitening effect. However, I embrace all my battle scars and mostly focus on having very good skin and using the right product.
I tried one of the local product once out of curiosity, and bought it on instagram. It was awful (had white cast on my face using their day cream) and did nothing, cost a whole lot for such tiny, tiny product that only last for a MONTH. They probably spend more on the pretty packaging than whats inside anyway. Later on, they start offering OEM service. Did not suprise me that much then.
Hi Mariam, thank you for enjoying it 🙂 I do wish our local publications (whether magazines or newspapers) would do a little more to educate the public as well. After all, I’m aware that many people still read publications. So, it is really up to them to do something (not just throw out photoshopped photos of impossibly fair people. I too have acne scars and pigmentation. The scars will and do fade a little over time, and products like Vitamin C helped me even out any uneven tone. But I still have pigmentation, which I keep at bay primarily by using copious amounts of sunscreen daily. People sometimes think I’m a little obsessed with the idea of using sunscreen, but seriously, it is our best protection against aging and skin damage. Wow you are brave for trying one of these products! But at least you can say that you speak from experience 😀
There’s a difference btwn whitening & brightening.
For me, I look sick & greenish when I am fair as I have low blood pressure thus 🙂 I prefer to go for brightening products & a fan of DIY or natural products.
As for local products so far for years I’ve been using scalp care, scrubs, massage oil & essential oil from Tanamera. Before tht I bought those imported ones which were costly way back thn. & switch around. I would say local or overseas, it’s what suits the skin & of course everybody also want affordable safe products. Even natural products can cause allergies.
When it comes to those natural/organic/etc skincare products.. it’s like organic veges. local or imported. We can never be too sure but do try laaah to be a smart consumer.
But the thing about Que P. products – it became a big drama coz. it was their 2nd time in less thn a year got banned & wondered how did it get approved & market out so fast. The 1st time, her products got banned. the founder claimed will refund & upgraded the products to be better & safer. So there were loop holes in those process in between.
Hi Vera, while I agree that sementically, there is a difference between whitening and brightening, the beauty industry has embraced the latter to replace the former, to be politically correct, especially in the West where things like whitening are considered racial. Hence, I lump them together for this purpose, as they do serve a similar function. That said, I have nothing against anyone who chooses to use it 🙂 Have you considered using a Vitamin C derived product or serum or Niacinamide instead to suit your purpose? As for local products, I have nothing against brands like Tanamera, which have a proper presence and use locally derived ingredients for their products, or those with manufacturing plants locally and a proper quality management system, and are sold in legitimate places like pharmacies or supermarkets. This lends a credibility to their brand and products that the ones sold on Facebook and Instagram don’t.
As for QP, I think she’s a hoax seriously. There is no way that she uses any of her products, and she’s bold enough to just leverage on her marketing to promote products without getting any certifications nor approval. I do think she deserves all the brickbats she gets, for she gives local skincare brands a bad name. (but good, coz it highlights the nonsense these people get up to in the name of money!)
Hi..it has been a long time after my last comment (probably you won’t remember).
Just drop by to say I’m GLAD that you raised this issue.
Like finally its an eye opener for most people who keep on wanting to be WHITE
.when the fact is we need to make sure our skin is healthy.
Hi there! Thanks for dropping by again Julia 😀 I’m glad you enjoyed this – being white isn’t everything. As Asians, and living so near the equator, we aren’t predisposed to being very white anyway, so the sooner we understand and accept that, the better!
heheheh.. i remember that we had this conversation before. I dont trust any product that selling their personality. Yes we have to educate people about this matters.. there should be some research behind every product esp skin care rather than just put any ingredients that could be dangerous.
For whitening im still using products that contain niacimide which works well for me and missing something when im not using it but is not like magic product that will erased all of my hyperpigmentation.
We most certainly did Jeihan! I hope you’re doing well – I saved a bit of the cake in the freezer so I can have it for my guilty pleasure treat in between my healthier foods haha! 😀 But yes, these local personalities are proof that charisma sells – it’s almost cult like, the way I see people flock to them! In many of these cases, they dont’ even bother with research – all they want is a quick buck. Nevermind that the product eventually gets banned, they’ll have made their money, and they’ll have another 3 new products to take its place! Oh niacinamide is something that’s good for the skin anyway, so no harm using it 🙂 Which product are you using again? I have never really delved into niacinamide before this.
PB you have no idea the beef I have with the local and cheating way of product.
Seriously, if big companies who does their research and it takes them years and even then they couldn’t guarantee fast result what makes you think people with no research are able to do the same in a SAFE way.
However everyone want fast result. For example ehem Tabitha. There was crazed surrounding it. It was very very difficult to convince people otherwise that it wasn’t safe when in 2-3 weeks you have baby smooth skin and that elusive fairer skin.
You and I both, Jue! If indeed there was a safe way to whiten skin, wouldn’t the big companies have patented the technology already?! I hadn’t actually come across Tabita skincare, but I looked it up, and oh dear, it most certainly does look like one of these scammy brands. Sigh. It’s even sold on Lazada (which I don’t trust as a general rule anyway)!
Thank you for writing so long and so detailed about the myth of whitening products. I don’t use any whitening products because I believed that hydration is the key for healthy skin. But as I hit mid30, I noticed that I start having some spots on my cheeks. To be honest, I was searching for some whitening products BEFORE I hit this topic. Your article really opens my mind, I will continue focusing on healthy and hydrated skin WITHOUT trying out any whitening products. Thanks for saving my RM & face ????????
Haha I’m glad I made you pause and think Peggy 🙂 I do understand the frustration that comes with having skin discolouration. The first thing to address is its cause (is it hormonal or due to the sun or allergy etc) and then, treat its cause. I have found that using a product with Vitamin C helps lighten such spots, so you could do some research into that too. Vitamin C is a hot commodity these days, so there’s many options out there!
I don’t use whitening range products except for sample gotten from the counter. I think aging makes skin dry, a fact attest by my colleagues as well. Not sure if they are using whitening products.
I am not into scrubs or acids as well. I think the daily regime of rubbing the face during washing, toning and massaging are flaking off the skin cells naturally. Skin is more prone to dehydration from over-handling and aggressive acids.
Yes, aging definitely makes skin drier, which is natural. But it can be countered with proper hydrating products as well. Using whitening products on top of aging, dry skin actually will only make it worse in the long run. But it’s something some people won’t want to accept 😛 I will have to beg to differ with you on the use of acids on skin (I’m not into physical scrubs either) as I have personally had good experience with using acids. I do concur that over exfoliation will lead to drier and more dehydrated skin, which is why it’s important to understand how these acids work, how to use them, when to use them and above all, when not to. But as with everything we do, a lot of it comes down to our perceptions on dealing with products we use 🙂
Woo… this was such a good read for the day! Couldn’t thank you more for raising this up. Apart from fair and lovely or such (brands like Uniliver runs on the shoulder of 3rd world beauty sentiments) now a days OEM brands scares me the most. Who are marketing their OEM product they are so confident claiming themselves as brand with legit product.
I’ve brown skin but I’m yet to understand why people lust for a whiter skin. My own knowledge on skincare isn’t much but at least it the common sense of loving own skin.
XOXO… GreenStory
I’m glad you enjoyed it Tamanna 🙂 Honestly, Fair & Lovely is such a disgrace and so repressive! I still remember their ads promising fairer skin in 14 days, and the way they associate it with success and beauty. Ugh! We can’t help how we look, when genetics is at play. The best thing we can do is learn to be comfortable in our own skin, whatever its colour, and then strive for such healthy skin, people will be jealous anyway! LOL 😀
I used to find whitening or anti-blemish products and would try the whole range. The products always seemed to work well the first few weeks then my skin would get dried or flakier 🙁
Fortunately, years later, I learned the benefit of using different range instead of focusing one range so that my skin got much more balance. Like you, I also found that getting my skin properly hydrated is much more wonderful compare to try making my skin whiter or acne free – better hydrated skin seems to help fixing other skin problem, too!
I’ve been there, Fathin so I know the feeling. I used to be all about trying every new whitening skincare range out there. Well, that was before I realised I was throwing money down a well coz nothing was working! LOL! That said, though, I have found that with whitening skincare ranges, they do tend to work better if you use the whole range, unlike with antiaging or hydrating where you can mix and match. I think it’s to do with how their products work together. But I’d now much rather have healthier skin than white skin. I can work with concealer any day if I want haha! 😀
Such a great post.. how i wish this is publish on local newspaper to educate everyone out there. Thanks paris b for the writeup. I on the other hand stay away from all local made products no matter what how and whom they claim to be.
Thank you Chikanoz! I’m glad you enjoyed it and found it useful 😉 I think it’s very wise to just stay away from these local brands – so many of them are so dodgy (and not cheap!) I wonder why people buy into it. Maybe it’s because it’s being touted by their favourite personality.
Preach! Brilliant article and I loved the “whitened face, tanned body” line xD
I’ve always been terribly suspicious of local brands, unfortunately. They just don’t inspire confidence in me whether in their claims or packaging or whatever it is. So I found it a bit of a concern when my peers (yep, mostly Chinese) began to do the whole agent/reseller thing with certain brands. I am like you – a skincare and beauty snob – which amuses some closer friends to no ends and sometimes I feel that they’re humouring me when I nag at them. But simple logic I think, listening to your skin talking. If it works nicely, great. If it doesn’t, throw that sucker right out even if it it probably cost you a bomb!
I do try to do extensive research even when I’m buying products from well-known brands, and I personally rarely ever purchase indie/artisan products unless it’s from people who I know well. At times I’m so paranoid that when it’s basic things like toner and moisturiser, I try to make my own even if it’s a bit inconvenient (a batch about every half to one week, so that it doesn’t spoil or anything) and sometimes a bit expensive.
Thank you Deborah, I’m glad you enjoyed it 🙂 Oh and yes, doesn’t anyone feel strange about having a whiter than white face but not for the neck and elsewhere? People are strange haha! And you aren’t the only one suspicious about local brands, especially those that pop out of nowhere and aren’t even sold in pharmacies. I do know of many people who do a little sideline doing a direct selling business of these products. I have found that the Chinese tend to go for higher priced, foreign sounding names (sometimes from Taiwan or China), which other ethnicities tend to go for something with a more local slant. Sometimes, people just live up to their stereotypes! 😛 When it comes to indie brands, I have to say that it depends for me. I’m not personally into green or natural and organic skincare, in which indie skincare tends to dominate, so I am less influenced. Locally, I do find that they tend to be very essential oils based, without too much more, and that’s why I don’t try many of them. I enjoy essential oils as much as the next person, but I do think there has to be something more, to make a product effective. But that’s me. I think it’s very brave of you to DIY your own skincare – I prefer to let someone else do it for me haha! 😀
Paris, Is it true that Korean and Japanese skincare will have whitening ingredients in all their products, even though it is not sold as a product that is specifically for whitening? My skin became extremely sensitive and dry after I used some Korean products for a few months. For some reason, my skin does not like Korean products and I am not sure why. I want to try SK2 because so many people swear by it but am worried it might make my sensitive skin dry and patchy.
Hi Wei, to be honest, I don’t think that’s ethical. That said however, sometimes, a product may contain different ingredients, in varying concentrations. So, there maybe whitening ingredients in there, but not in sufficient quantities to do something e.g. whitening, so they can’t label it as such. If it does, I believe they should. As for Korean skincare, that’s a whole area for another day haha! I personally don’t use many if any Korean skincare brands and if I do, I find that the higher end ones work better for me. I personally found that often, Japanese skincare in particular used to contain a lot of alcohol which ultimately will be drying to the skin. I don’t know about now, as I don’t use a lot of Asian skincare anymore. I won’t say anything about SK2 except that it’s a brand I’ve used and discarded many years ago. It’s a personal thing and I know that many people love it. In my view, there are many other products out there that are much better, more effective and importantly, cheaper. If you really want to try it, I’d suggest getting a trial pack, which they sell from time to time. If it doesn’t work out, it won’t cost you too much. If you really like it then you can invest. My friends enjoy using it and I have nothing against it personally. But I just won’t touch it anymore 🙂
At first glance the title of this article makes me think of unfair generalization of all good and honest local brands such as Unilever, Wipro UNZA, Nutox, etc but upon reading, I was relieved. Glad you hignlighted the vast difference between the OEM and the established legal business. With those legitimate cosmetic business, they did do the laborious safety testing before selling. The UNZA Japanese range called Eversoft Skinz is affordable, pretty good and their formulation is at par with the imported overpriced skincare, a blessing for those with lesser income. I think they should be well-promoted.
I did realize rather belatedly that I seem to have tarred everyone with the same brush, but I hope it didn’t come across that way 🙂 I am aware that there are some legitimate businesses locally that make cosmetics affordably, with some research put in. Those tend to be sold in pharmacies, and I believe also, have some credibility to them in the corporate world. It’s more of the get-rich-quick schemes using low quality OEM products and passing them off as expensive creams that I’m really getting at. It’s not something many of us will come across, thankfully. Our local pharmacies have many decent quality and affordable products that people can use. Far better than buying into all these personality driven products at any rate!
Oh my goodness, ‘Krim Kilo’ ?!
I was horrified when I came across it! A lot of the information is only in Malay, but I spent many a happy (and disgusted) hour reading through all the articles. Yikes!
Twenty odd years ago, the white face and tanned body syndrome was already prevalent. I hanged out with a cousin a lot at the time and he used to comment how freaky these malay girls looked; not purposely targeting malay girls, but it was a fact. Many malay girls goes around with super white faces and tanned necks, for those without scarf and simply ghoulishly pale, for those with scarf. My cousin frequently wonders why they choose to look that way as it certainly was not the look that men were attracted to. The white as sheet face hype made two competing jutawan kosmetiks; one was recently found murdered.
Thank goodness I never bought into the hype. I was not earning much and had a lot of commitment such as school to think of and the only thing I could afford then was the Martha Tilaar stuff. I was still battling with bouts of acne and my concerns were to control the oil and the acne situation. Whitening was not a concern.
Two decades later, whitening is still not a thing I go for. Along the way i learnt that moisturising is all important, and for the last ten years, sunscreening. Everything else is just marketing.
I think i realise from early on that my mom had always been tanned and I should not be too far off. This is made worse by my hands on approach to work whereby I take the time to go for management walkabout at our open yard in Labuan every so often, so as to be seen by and be with the staff. And it can get really hot there. Tanned skin is the rule not the exception in my industry. So sunscreening is very important. I do preach to the girls in the office on the benefits of sunscreening, even if they were just working in the offices. The lights are just as bad.
As a non whitening product user, i have never personally experienced the drying effect of whitening products, but I did witness it. One of my staff had taken to using his wife’s SK II. He already has dry skin with acne and using the SK II product made it worse. I told him what I thought SK II was doing but he did not buy it as the product did not have similar effect on the wife. Honestly, I do not see the translucent effect on the wife’s face either, though her skin did not look as dry as his. But if that is how they wish to spend their wealth, so be it.
Over the past thirty years, I’ve progressed from the cheapest of cheap, Martha Tilaar products to Lancome to Guerlain to Sothys. I refuse to slip down the slippery slope of La Mer and the likes. I’ve come to my senses and refuse to throw my money on brands. Reading the ingredient list has now become second nature and i work with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acids, niacinamide, glycolic and lactic acids. I find the Cerave moisturizers works as well as any of the expensive creams I’ve used before and saying that, it must really work because it kept my now dry skin nicely moisturised. Like you, I have not seen the effect of retinol but then again, I do not really spend that much time looking closely at my face.
After thirty years of experimenting I can safely say that I’ve stopped getting giddy on all things shiny and thank goodness too. It is time to focus on the real issues in life. I guess old age caught up 🙂
Thanks for sharing Ishi 🙂 I think, being Asian the whitening culture has always been there. Perhaps a little less noticeably before than today, when advertising bombards us from every corner. I have always had fair skin, but it always boggled my mind why that would be the first thing anyone comments on, and my best friend who had tanned skin would be compared unfavourably. It bummed us both. Thankfully, we both grew up to be well adjusted adults, but I can imagine that those who weren’t as strong mentally, would be suckered into the whole whitening craze, and perhaps even damage their skin. Today, more than ever, we should be thankful for our health and for not having skin that’s too troublesome, and to be thankful for the varieties of skincare we have access to, unlike before. Yet, I can see how old habits die hard, for otherwise, we wouldn’t be having to deal with krim kilo and the like!
Let me first praise you because of this article and the other one about being happy with your own skin; I don’t if it’s because of wisdom but we need more posts like this and less about “The power of makeup”/”Look skinnier in one step” and all of the same style. People say that we appreciate natural beauty and are body positive because we don’t have perfect face/skills/bodies; but in fact I’m because I truly believe you need to be comfortable in your own skin before being happy. And PB, you have said in a really great way.
Fair skin is also a beauty standard in Mexico, I’ve already told you that; however I’m not sure if you get the same amount of discrimination because of your skin color that medium to dark skin tones get in Mexico: the darker you’re the more prone you’re to be discriminated. I’m ashamed of that because, it’s plain bullshit and makes people feel unhappy with what they are.
So yes, we also get a lot of skin whiteners or brighteners; they say that it’s to restore your natural color but we all know why people use them. I have some dark spots and like you said I’m comfortable with them and prefer to keep my skin looking healthier rather than achieving an immaculate skin; which as you say comes along with healthy skin.
About kilo creams, I haven’t heard of them but it’s really common to see in street markets people selling “natural skincare” or really cheap makeup and I simply can’t understand how people try them without worrying; as you said it’s impossible to know what’s inside them.
And finally I found a ferulic acid serum that it’s “cheaper” compared with Skinceuticals one: Sesderma Ferulac Liposomal serum; I haven’t tried because it’s still out of my budget but maybe it’ll help you (I found a Malaysian store, but I don’t know how worth-trusty it is: Care to beauty).
Thanks Efrain 🙂 Indeed, as much as I enjoy and appreciate wearing makeup, I honestly cannot stand the way it is trowelled on. When I see videos on Instagram showing people using one FULL PUMP of foundation for each half of their face, I cringe. I realise to each their own, but it is firstly wasteful, and secondly, sending the wrong message to the impressionable. But that’s the story for another day! It’s sad isn’t it, how fair skin is the measure of beauty, and how that gets people the opportunities that other, more talented people, don’t? It happens here too – the discrimination against the darker skinned. I think there is a version of “kilo creams” everywhere – there are always unscrupulous people out to make a quick buck, and sadly, a lot of this crap comes out of China, where money is king, and health and safety is nonexistent.
Thanks for the ferulic acid serum recommendation. I’ve not used one yet (the Skinceuticals one has been tempting but it costs an arm and a leg!) There is a comparable one from Cosmetics Skin Solutions, if you’d like to try. They ship worldwise 🙂
Have you looked at The Ordinary’s range of retinol? I haven’t tried them, but I am so far trying their Buffet serum and having good results. I know you’ve tried the Hylamide SubQ Anti-Age which didn’t work out well for you, but it worked well for me so I’m not sure if The Ordinary would work for you but you can check them out! I’m also trying the Jordan Samuel Skin Etoile with Retinol Treatment Oil, and so far so good for me. It’s my first time trying something with retinol, and so far so good! My skin looked really glowy and I didn’t react badly to it, which was a relief.
Yes I have tried the Ordinary Retinol, which I did not find particularly life changing, unfortunately. I haven’t had a lot of luck with the brand but I did recently pick up Buffet which I’ll be trying to see if it works, and whether I should ditch the brand for good 😛 Thanks for the Jordan Samuel rec. Am also considering Pestle & Mortar … once I strike the lottery 😛
Oh, I’d also like to add, that is why when choosing a place to get facials, I tend to go for more reputable names and places even if they cost more. I’ve seen and even been to some facial salons/spas, while touting one brand name, sometimes mix in other products of different brands, oftentimes of dodgy origin. Usually masks and/or “ampoules”. Thankfully my skin survived unscathed and it would definitely be the last time I’ll ever step foot into those places, and I have a found a place I could trust and frequent.
I do the same, if only for peace of mine. I have little to no confidence in a neighbourhood salon, unfortunately. They care too much about their margins to actually use enough of the actual product during their facials.