This is an interesting question for me, because I have been doing it for so many years, that it comes automatically. But recently, I came across an influential voice on social media, and glanced at a book about skincare, both of whom proposed that you don’t need to double-cleanse.
This, they say, is because double-cleansing dries out the skin, and this more so if you have dry skin.
I thought it was an interesting viewpoint, and while I’m no expert, I thought I’d share a quick view on this from the standpoint of someone who recognises that double-cleansing can be drying, but who still does it without much problems.
I attribute this to one thing – using the correct products.
What is double-cleansing?
Plainly speaking, to double-cleanse your skin is to cleanse your skin, twice.
The first step usually employs the use of a cleansing oil (this is the most common first step cleanse) or a cleansing balm. The second could be a cleansing gel or cream or lotion.
Why double-cleanse?
The reason for double-cleansing is to ensure that your skin is thoroughly clean, before you proceed with the rest of your skincare routine. The cleansing oil or balm works to remove dirt, makeup, sunscreen, grime etc on your skin more effectively, as the ingredients work better at breaking down and binding with these impurities. Once you get the main grime off, you can then proceed with a more gentle cleanser.
Think of it rather like when you get your hands really grimy with oil and grease. You won’t be able to remove it all in one wash. So, what do you do? You wash, and then you wash again until it’s clean. You do the same with your face.
I learnt this technique many years ago from using Japanese skincare and going for their facials. The Japanese have been double-cleansing for decades, and their skincare ranges reflect this practice. It’s only in recent years that I’ve seen double-cleansing being advocated among the Western media and Western skincare brands.
Among Western brands, cold creams have been traditionally used for removing thick makeup. You could even argue that if it was followed up with a wash-off cleanser thereafter, it would be double-cleansing too! No one said it had to be cleansing oils only 😛
When to double-cleanse?
I’d only do it in the evening cleanse. When you wake up, your skin isn’t so dirty as to warrant a full, thorough cleanse. Some people don’t even use a cleanser in the morning, just splashing water on the skin!
I do, but with a gentle cleanser only. I’ve had people tell me they don’t use a cleanser and it works for them.
I say, work with whatever your skin likes! 😀 No real rules as far as I’m concerned.
In the evening, you’d have had your skincare on all day, and (hopefully!) waterproof sunscreen. You may also have makeup on. You need to properly clean everything off, so your skin can benefit from your evening skincare routine, and to properly absorb all the nutrients you’re going to be throwing at it.
Will double-cleansing dry your skin?
From experience, it can.
I noticed that when I use a cleansing oil, it had a tendency to dry my skin further. When I couple it with a foaming cleanser, it felt worse. It was for this reason that I no longer use cleansing oils, as I found them too harsh and drying for my skin.
When I experimented with different types of cleansers, I found that for drier skin like mine, the best types of cleansers that allowed me to double cleanse without drying out my skin, was a cleansing balm, followed by a cleansing lotion/milk/cream.
Basically, I opted for something that feels more gentle, more comforting on my skin, bearing in mind my skin type. If you have more oily skin, or if you wear thick makeup, a cleansing oil does the job more effectively, and makes your skin feel cleaner more quickly. I would follow up thereafter with a more gentle cleanser, as opposed to an aggressive foaming cleanser.
To me therefore, there is some truth in not using a cleansing oil, as it can make your skin drier. However, I would use something like a cleansing balm or gel-to-oil cleanser, that feels more gentle on the skin, and is more nourishing.
For those with dry skin, I would not rule out double-cleansing altogether. It just comes down to picking the right cleansers for your skin type.
I would not rule out double cleansing also, because of sunscreen. I am a sunscreen evangelist, as many of you will know. A good sunscreen will sit on top of your skin to protect it, and it would be water-resistant. Can a good cleanser remove it, and makeup, and sweat and oils and dirt in just one cleanse at the end of the day? It could.
But would it? I’m not taking chances!
Alternative to double-cleansing
If you are averse to the idea of double cleansing, or if your skin feels a little too sensitive, are there options?
In a way yes.
I have found that using a cleansing balm or oil, coupled with a face cloth does a good job at cleaning my skin well at the end of the day, even with just one pass.
For some people, a wipe with micellar water before a gentle cleanse in the shower at the end of the day, works for them too.
My personal philosophy is to double-cleanse. I have found it beneficial for me, and I am sensitive enough to my skin’s needs, to be able to pick the right cleansers for me. However, I say everyone should work with their own skin type.
If there is a reason for not double-cleansing, then so be it. At the end of the day, it’s our skin – we do whatever that’s necessary to keep it healthy 🙂
Do you double-cleanse?
I guess you know my answer to that! 😀
Paris B
Anna says
I double-cleanse since many years and it has been a great improvement for my skin. I have sensitive and easily dehydrated skin so choosing the right product is important to me. I have been using the DHC cleansing oil for a long time and it is still one of my favorite oils, even though I like to change from time to time. Cleansing balms feel strangely tacky or greasy , I never found one that I liked. It is true that Double-cleansing can dry out the skin but I always had good results using a lightweight toner or face-mist directly afterwards. I’ll stick to that !
Paris B says
Happy to hear that double-cleansing works for you and that you have found the best products for your skin! Ultimately, I think that is very important, because not every product works for everyone and that is something we all have to bear in mind 🙂
Adrienne says
I started double cleansing thanks to reading your post ! I have never really thought it necessary till I realised sunscreen needs to be removed properly too though it’s not make up (again, from your post). If I wore foundation or highlight/ blush I would use make up remover first then cleansing balm then cream cleanser.
Paris B says
Aww thank you for letting me know my little rambling posts are helpful! 😀 I think many people forget about how sticky sunscreen can be. But then, I also realise how few people are actually diligent about wearing sunscreen! Horrors 😛
I love skincare! says
I think of myself as a double cleansing person, but technically I’m not. I use a cleansing balm, wipe it off with a disposable Kleenex hand towel, which is softer than any paper towel, and take a shower. The tepid water running over my face and neck is enough to remove the remnants, even if my shower is quick. I don’t use a washcloth / flannel in the shower. Experience taught me the friction of the cloth combined with my skin’s more delicate state when wet meant it was too drying. My skin would peel the next day.
I like cleansing balms because it takes more coordination not to drip cleansing oil all over my sink. At the end of the day, I don’t have energy to pull that off. Until reading this blog post, I hadn’t realized cleansing oils were more drying than balms.
Instead of using an oil marketed as a cleanser, I sometimes use Neutrogena Bath Oil Fragrance Free when I feel like using oil to melt my daily five layers of sunscreen. Dr. Dray on YouTube suggested using this as a cleanser. It turns out this bath oil is far more effective at removing long wear lip color than any cleansing balm or oil I’ve ever tried. Most nights however I use Drunk Elephant’s Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser. It’s fragrance free. I do NOT use the Bamboo Booster, the gritty powdered bamboo they suggest as an exfoliant [shudder].
I have you to thank for my plunge into YouTube skincare videos, Paris. I read your blog post about Dr. Sam 13-dot method of spreading moisturizer. I think I have now spent the equivalent of a few months watching skincare videos.
Paris B says
Hi! Whatever works with proper cleansing is good cleansing! 🙂 I understand how double cleansing the usual way doesn’t appeal to everyone and I’ve had people tell me that the flannel can aggravate their skin too, especially if skin is very sensitive. Sometimes, as with many things, less is more! 🙂 I’m quite intrigued at the use of the Neutrogena Bath Oil as a cleanser! What a useful double-use product 😀 Glad you found the skincare videos online useful. I don’t watch many myself anymore, but there’s always something new to learn from every video we watch! 🙂