“Skin Fatigue” – I wonder what’s that? I hear you ask.
Well, here’s some things I learned about our skin and why we may feel that sometimes, some skincare doesn’t deliver what they promise, or why our skin may just not be receptive to certain skincare. I’ll try to distill the science of what I’ve learned from listening to a couple of scientists during my trip to Sydney with Olay 🙂
I’ll allow that the take away is quite Olay-centric which is to be expected, but a lot of the sciencey bits made sense so I’ll share those 🙂 So, what’s that about skin and energy then? How does our skin get tired and how does that affect how we look?
Left: Dr. John Oblong, P&G Right: Prof Mark Birch-Machin, University of Newcastle UK
By way of preface, this was on the fringe of the 6th Asia and Oceania Conference on Photobiology which is the study of the effect of sunlight on human health including its benefits and detrimental effects. Thankfully, I might add, I wasn’t required to sit through the actual conference or I might have been that rude participant snoozing away at the back. That wouldn’t have been very impressive would it? 😛
Skin energy drainers
During an insightful and oft-times amusing presentation by Prof Mark Birch-Machin and also Dr. John Oblong in a closed session, we learned that photobiology research has shown that sunlight, whilst beneficial to us for producing Vitamin D and keeping us feeling happy and sunny (literally) can also be detrimental to our health and our skin. Now, many of us already know this.
That’s why we slather on our sunscreens everyday, rain or shine to protect ourselves from the harmful UV rays, which are known to cause aging, pigmentation and generally, bad skin. Well, you ARE applying sunscreen daily aren’t you?
But other than the sun, Prof Mark Birch-Machin also shared that in the study of Cellular Bioenergenetics, research has also found that our skin loses energy through other means, which in terms of beauty, means that our skin starts looking dull, gets dehydrated and ages more quickly. These skin bioenergy drainers are:-
- Stress – This could be the mildest thing, stressing over what to wear for a date, or work stresses.
- Diet – So, it’s true what they say – you are what you eat. So if you eat junk food or foods high in sugar, skin energy levels deteriorate more quickly and if you eat lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, meats and a balanced diet, you get better skin. The science does support this theory!
- Pollution – This is an external stress on our skin that we may not notice a lot. But if you go to a place where the air is cleaner and fresher, your skin looks better. If you go where it is highly polluted, then skin does look worse. This explains why in cities, where pollution levels are higher, we can expect to experience more breakouts or dull looking skin than if you were out in the clean country air. When I was in Shanghai a couple of years back, my skin was horrible! A good excuse to move to the country, folks 😛
- UV Radiation – This is well known and by now, most of us know to block this with sunscreen or our dressing. If you need more proof, Prof Mark who does research on whales (how cool is that?!) explained that whales actually get a tan when they swim closer to the surface in summer! Now that’s one bit of trivia you don’t come across often 😉 I asked if there is a higher incidence of skin cancer among whales then, since they clearly don’t apply sunscreen or sunblock but there was no answer. I think I stumped them for a bit 😛
What happens when skin loses energy or skin energy is low?
When energy is low, our cells become less efficient. Pretty much like us. When I’m low on energy, I am pretty darned inefficient. My messy house is testament to this because I’m just too tired to clear up as often or as efficiently as I like 😛
Ditto our skin cells. When the energy in our skin cells is low then:-
- they don’t eliminate melanin as efficiently resulting in uneven skin tone
- they can’t retain water as well resulting in dry and dehydrated skin
- they have a slow response time in synthesising collagen resulting in loss of firmness and elasticity on skin
- they don’t process free radicals efficiently resulting in skin damage
Basically, the energy drainers are making us age more quickly and look older faster. Never thought of it in that light did you?
The Skin Fatigue Theory
So, this loss of skin energy and the energy drainers are basically what contributes to the “Skin Fatigue Theory”. Basically, your skin just gets tired. And whilst skincare can help in boosting energy, it takes specific ingredients and sufficient levels of such ingredients to combat these energy drainers.
Our lifestyles can affect our skin
What we need therefore, are skincare that protects our cells and recharges them with energy so they work more efficiently. I asked Prof Mark if this loss of energy has a co-relation to our lifestyles.
For example, I noticed that if I’m hardworking and exercise more often (I go through exercise in fits and bursts) and eat more healthy foods my skin generally looks better, no matter what skincare I use. If I don’t exercise as much, or start indulging in too much junk food, then I do find I need more upkeep.
Prof Mark confirmed that there is a co-relation. If you exercise more, naturally your body’s energy levels are higher and this will help boost your cell energy levels as well, but to protect from external aggressors, we need to use skincare that works for us, so the take away is, if you want better skin, be sure to exercise, stay healthy and use skincare that works for you 😛
New cells do not necessarily mean better skin
We also know that our skin cells renew every 28 days or so, so I asked Prof Mark if these new skin cells might perform better. After all, they’re new right?
Well, not really, Professor Mark explained. These new cells are epidermal cells on the surface of the skin. However, fibroblast that makes collagen, found on the lower surface of our skin doesn’t regenerate once it breaks down, and it will, with the external aggressors and with age. So, that’s where skincare products can help maintain or protect this fibroblast so you have firmer skin.
Olay, of course, uses niacinamide which is a well known anti-oxidant that is now recognised as being an efficient antioxidant and protecting and reinforcing skin cells. But I also probed and found out that what I’d learned from the Cellular Bioenergenetics talk is that the Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II (The new ANR2) operates on a similar principle as well! ANR2 explains their product using the circadian rhythm – sleep and it’s effects but when I probed Prof. Mark about this, he agreed that the circadian rhythm theory has its merits as well and a product that helps boost skin energy while we sleep and are at rest does have merit. I admit that was a bit sneaky of me, but I had to know if there was merit behind what I was told about ANR2 and who better to ask than a scientist 😀
Some skincare may not be working hard enough to replenish or boost your skin energy levels
Remember when we talked about our skincare graveyard and how some products just didn’t work for us, leaving aside those that broke us out? Some just don’t seem to do anything. This, Dr. John Oblong explains may be due to the ingredients in the skincare not doing enough to protect and boost our skin energy levels. And this is true also in prestige skincare. Not all prestige skincare works because they may be pricey but may not have what it takes and I experience this myself.
It’s like giving a tired man plain water as opposed to Red Bull I guess 😛 The former helps him rehydrate but doesn’t give him the energy he needs, while the latter gets him up and going. So, even if you pump him with Perrier water, it’s just water. It’s not going to do anything to his energy levels.
So that’s the science behind why a skincare may or may not deliver the results you expect to see when you use it. According to the scientists, there could be a very simple reason. Your skin could just be tired and no one’s helping to boost its energy levels!
What skincare ingredients should I use?
One ingredient that does do what it claims (and this is agreed and proven to work) is Niacinamide which is used extensively in Olay products. However, I don’t think this alone will give you that brand new bouncy skin you are expecting. There are a whole host of other ingredients which work in tandem – Retinol, Vitamin C, AHA/BHA, Vitamin E, Resveratrol, Grape Seed, Linoleic Acid – are some that come to mind. These ingredients are proven to work in an anti-aging capacity and as with everything in life, we need a variety. Who knows what other new ingredient is out there too!
That said however, I also believe in using what suits you, your lifestyle, your wallet and your ease to replenish. Ultimately, no matter what the scientists tell us, we are individuals and not everything will work for everyone. Some people are more sensitive to some ingredients than others, no matter how good they are, so don’t be upset because you can’t use a highly raved product. Just move on and find one that works for you. Use something you can find locally that you can afford easily, instead of something expensive that can only be found overseas because with skincare, you need to replenish, and what’s the good of a skincare that only works for that short while that you’re using it eh?
What’s most important is that you see the results and that means you don’t end up with a skincare graveyard 🙂
Do you notice the effects of internal and external aggressors on your skin? Do you use Olay products?
I hope you found the science behind the skincare interesting if a trifle long. When it comes to stresses, I find it best to keep your emotions on an even keel as much as possible. Don’t sweat the small stuff. Your skin will ultimately thank you for it by making you look younger than your years 😉
Paris B
This is based on a closed door presentation by Prof Mark Birch-Machin and Dr. John Oblong and any mistakes or misconceptions are my own based on my interpretation of what was told.
The whale cancer question: http://www.uniofsurreyblogs.org.uk/physics/2013/08/26/why-don%E2%80%99t-all-whales-have-cancer/
How very fascinating, thank you Teresa 🙂
Interesting. Though most women already know about the effects stress, diet and pollution can do to us,we dont really understood the details. Thanks for sharing, paris! I am happy to also know that ANR applied the circadian rhythm thingy, now no wonder we all look rested after using it! Hehe
I’m glad you enjoyed this Liyeun. I was hoping no one would fall asleep during the ‘lecture’ heh… As for ANR, yep I had to test that theory with the scientists and I’m glad they both passed the test with flying colours! Have to say that one really hit it out of the park with its efficacy.
This is a very informative post. Many of us know what affects our skin negatively but we are not quite sure why and how. I think that having such knowledge is important so that when we look for skin care, we know what ingredients to look out for otherwise it would be simply hitting out in the dark and hoping we strike gold. While, as you mentioned, there are still many other factors to be taken into account, being better informed means that it narrows down what we choose from – save time, save money and hopefully save us from major skin disasters!
Hope to see more of these sort of posts popping up.
Thank you Isabel. I was afraid it might be too “deep” but I’m glad you enjoyed it! 🙂 I can’t promise I’ll have more to come but I’ll be sure to share whenever I come across an interesting scientific tidbit now I know that people enjoy it! 🙂 As for our skin, you’re right. we do need to know the root cause of our problems and then how to treat it. Finding the right ingredient to solve our problems is also the next key step and with most of us not being scientists nor chemists, it’s another big learning curve. However, don’t discount genetics as well. Some problems like acne and pigmentation have been traced to genetics and if that’s the case, it gets harder to control and the only thing we can do is treat 🙂
My triggers are sugar and refined carbs. Am trying to stay away but it’s so easy to fall off the wagon, especially before my period when I get extra munchy…
Ah yes, sugars are actually a big problem for the skin and while I’m thankful I’m not into sweets, I can’t say the same for savouries and they aren’t necessarily healthy either! LOL Everything in moderation I say or life will be pretty bland 😉
Thanks for the post, Paris. Very informative as usual 🙂 Yes, I apply sunscreen every day and love that question about whales and skin cancer. Wonder if they’ll start a research on that! While stress and pollution are something we can’t totally avoid, I have been better at watching what I eat. More fresh produce, more water and more sleep! I can definitely see the difference 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it 🙂 You’re right about making lifestyle changes – it’s the biggest thing I’ve done and the one that’s reaped the most benefits, alongside an overhaul of my skincare and routines. Best thing ever 🙂
Thank you very much for sharing this post with your readers as it is really informative. I do know that Niacinamide is a good ingredient to have in your products especially anti-aging ones. I am currently using the Micro Sculpting moisturiser and it is pretty good. Have been seriously thinking of using the Night Essence that I saw on your Instagram as it has also gotten pretty impressive reviews on the internet. Do you think this product is worth trying out?
I was debating whether to bring this up here or to drop you an email but I thought this is the best time. I was reading Paula Begoun’s Beautypedia and was quite shocked actually at how much she hates certain brands due to fragrance, plant extracts that are actually irritants and moisturisers in jars. She especially has a very low opinion on skincare products from Clarins, Origins, Ren, Lancome and Shiseido.
My question is does the ingredients of the products lose its effectiveness if it is in a jar instead of a bottle? I have checked against Caroline Hirons’ Beautymouth and this is what she has to say:
“I work with a lot of brands at NPD level and you can indeed have hi-tech ingredients in jars. It all depends on the delivery system. If something is macro-encapsulated (which costs) it’s perfectly stable. The brands I’ve worked with and continue to work with do clinical trials, stability testing and in vivo testing (far superior to in vitro testing) to gauge all aspects of efficacy. If I had to choose I’d pick airless for convenience – for travel especially – but the key is in the formulations, the ingredients and the manufacturing.”
What is your take on this? Apologies once again for the very long comment 🙂
Don’t apologise, Victoria – it was a good question! 🙂 As for Beautypedia, I actually take a lot of what’s said with a large pinch of salt. I find it hard to take seriously criticisms of brands and products from people who are a skincare brand themselves. It’s not independent. Secondly, I believe that ingredients in isolation are one thing but it is chemistry that determines how they work together and chemistry that determines how they work with our skin, and since our skins are all different, I can expect them to work differently on everyone. Which goes to say, I don’t believe reading the ingredient list will tell us just how it’ll work for us, although it’d give us an idea of what might irritate us. I’d rather use a plant extract for example, than mercury, which was used in many early skincare and I’d like to think science has progressed far enough to formulate products which aren’t actually harmful for the general masses.
As for jars vs bottles, I’m actually with Caroline Hirons even if I don’t have her vast insider knowledge and training. My reasoning is thus – all skincare through the ages came in jars. They were salves and potions and it worked. Science has progressed, and I believe so has the formulation of ingredients and products, especially from the larger more well established brands. I don’t place as much faith in something brewed in the kitchen of a home, but if it’s made in a lab and a sterilized environment, I don’t see why a product in a jar is any worse than a product in a bottle. We eat jams in jars don’t we? 😛 I don’t discriminate in packaging, I confess. For me, if it came in a certain packaging, it was meant to come that way. I believe a lot of what we understand/know is down to brainwashing and scaremongering so I try to swim against that tide a lot of the time and ask – “Why not?” and see where that takes me 🙂 Sorry for the essay 😛
This is a very informative yet scientific post. Lucky you don’t need to stay through the whole conference. ZZzzz.. I tried Olay products long time ago but it’s bit too oily for my skin. But I’m eyeing at their latest Olay Aquaaction series. Wondering if they could repair the skin barrier? :))
Glad you enjoyed it Cynthia! I hope it didn’t send you straight to dreamland LOL! Oh I have only tried the Aquaction gel thing and it’s nice 😉 Olay says it does (of course :P) and it’s actually very comfortable on skin. I hope to have a review up soon 😉
This is a really informative and geeky post!! 😀
Having good skin isn’t an overnight thing. Therefore, using an expensive skincare doesn’t help if we cannot change our life styles – hours of sleep per night and diet. The “Perrier water” will help “quench the thirst faster” provided we have achieved enough rests, good and sensible diet, and personal hygienic habits.
I tried Olay anti-ageing moisturiser once, but can’t say I notice tremendous difference so I switched to other brands. HAHA. Perhaps I was not using the right product… T_T
Haha very geeky indeed, Ting! Hope it didn’t send you to sleep 😛 But you’re right, good skin or even improving our skin isn’t like waving a magic wand over it. (I think that wand is called botox or laser :P) but it is an ongoing process that has it’s highs and its lows. When I feel ill, skin looks like crap and it looks better only once I’m all well and hale and hearty again. It all makes sense once you distill the science out of it 😛 I liked Total Effects and I couldn’t use Regenerist Serum because it broke me out. The whitening line did nothing for me but I’m planning to try the Micro-Sculpting Cream soon, once my night cream is out. Just to see if it might replace my very $$$ night cream 😛
Hello Paris! no I didn’t fall asleep. I was only nodding my head half way to dreamland (just kidding!!!). :p
Yesterday I was standing in front of Olay shelves and trying to decide to give it another go. So many to choose from. Then I read “methyparaben” in the ingredient list and I promptly put it back on shelves. I don’t know… does it bother you? With or without paraben? I ended up with No. 7 day & night moisturiser instead (it’s now in one of those pre-christmas sales so why not?).
If I remember correctly, I had used Micro-Scuplting Cream before. Can’t say that it really has sculpted my round face. At least it doesn’t break me out. :p
Haha! you crack me up 😀 I actually am not fussed about parabens. Let’s just say I’m a little leery of scare mongering and I’m just not clever enough a scientist to know if it’s really bad or not or if we should avoid it altogether. My concern will be that if they remove parabens, then what else are they using as a preservative? Might it be worse? I don’t know and for that, I have to rely on the researchers to know what they’re doing enough not to kill me 😛
Very educational – thanks for sharing. Love the water/Red Bull/Perrier analogy. Clever girl, Paris!
Glad you enjoyed it Ginny and ahem! I thought that analogy was pretty genius myself haha! 😀 xx
Interesting stuff! You know, I don’t notice much difference according to my eating or exercise habits. What I have learned recently, is that my skin REALLY loves natural skincare a lot! My breakouts have seemed to reduce and there’s a glow happening, so I’ll think twice before going back to anything else!
Isn’t it great when we actually work out what our skin likes? 😀 I am still on the fence about natural skincare but you and your raves for Tata Harper have me champing at the bit to get it! Thank goodness it is so pricey and thank goodness it isn’t easily available here otherwise… heh…
This is very informative! I have a question that has been on my mind for some time, and it is out of topic, but it’s to do with sunscreens. I wonder how much of the ocean do we pollute when we wear sunscreen, (even if it is water resistant), it gets washed off by the water…
It has gotten my attention and while I know we need to protect our skin, but I also wonder what else are we damaging in return for protecting our skin?
That’s a good question, Anthea and I think a while back there was a bit deal about how the sunscreen we’re using could actually be killing corals. I have a post on it from a while ago here. The “problem” I’d say, is that how do we know that “green sunscreens” work as well to protect us, or that they too won’t damage the eco system of the sea, since it is still chemicals after all. Unless we’re slathering ourselves in a seaweed mulch, I believe there’ll always be an element of damage once any chemical is introduced.
Oh Paris, this is the best post of the year, thank you very much! Very interesting stuff, I like scientific explanation on skincare products. And, you are right about don’t sweat the small stuff. 🙂
Aww thank you Junni, I’m so glad many people enjoyed it and didn’t fall asleep during the ‘lecture’ 😀 I do enjoy reading the science behind skin care too but it’s not always I have the opportunity to talk to non affiliated scientists to get some proper answers. It’s always hard to talk to in house researchers, because they are after all paid to tell us certain things and I find that a little hard to keep repeating 🙂
Very interesting! And it’s so true that hydration and stress really do affect your skin.
I’ve since moved on from Olay. Partly due to curiosity, and partly due to the fact that my skin has since rebel against it. So, yeah, sorry to my wallet. 😛
Haha I know how you feel Sze Ling! I’m glad I used it when my wallet was slimmer though. It helped me stay on my skincare routine or I might have just fallen off the skincare bandwagon looking at how prohibitive costs can be! 😀
Very interesting post, PB! I especially like that photo of the presentation on the types of moisturisation for plugging that “hole in the bucket”. I often get confused with the humectant and occlusive moisturisers; that analogy is perfect.
Thanks Tine! Oh I thought that slide was interesting too. It’s always easier to view a concept in a chart/pictorial form than in words isn’t it?
Paris, thank you for this interesting point of view. For me, stress and caffeine are the main culprits. Even though I have started to use better products now, but there’s just so much that money can buy. Stress can be self inflicted at times. “It’s like giving a tired man plain water as opposed to Red Bull I guess” – love this analogy!
Glad you found this interesting, Jennifer 🙂 Stress is always self inflicted, I’ve learned. True, people can put pressure on us, but we’d have to then take it upon ourselves to feel that stress. So, take a deep breath, smell (don’t drink) the coffee and go Ommmm…. 🙂