I’ve recently received quite a few emails on this subject matter so I thought it might be a good time to share our thoughts. The question that has come up repeatedly (mostly related to the Hada Labo Super Hyaluronic Acid lotion) is this:-
Is Toner meant to be wiped off or patted on? How can a toner clean your skin if its patted on?
First off, it might be useful to get it clear that there are 2 ideologies when it comes to “toner” or the 2nd step of skincare. I once talked about this when I pondered on whether toner is really necessary and whilst my opinions have not changed, the products I use have.
Ideology #1 – Toner is to be wiped off to further clean the skin
This concept is found mostly in Western skincare brands. The concept of a toner which many of us have been educated on is to further clean our skin of any residue of cleanser, or to close pores or exfoliate our skin. For those who have problematic skin, it makes sense. When I was battling acne, using the apple cider vinegar mix as a toner helped my skin stay clearer.
As for the use of toner to further clean skin of dirt and residue, I’d say, get a better cleanser. Honestly, a good cleanser will clean your skin of all dirt. I personally double cleanse. Its a personal choice and it works for me but thats because I follow the Asian philosophy in skincare as I’ll explain below.
Ideology #2 – Toner is to be patted on and left on your skin
If you look in the Asian skincare brands e.g. Kanebo, Shiseido, Laneige, Hada Labo, you will not find anything called a “toner”. What you will find in the 2nd step of skincare is a “lotion”.
I’ve learnt over the years that in Asian skincare, the concept is of infusing as much moisture into the skin as possible and they do this by layering. You will notice that there is double cleansing involved in most Asian brands – cleansing oil and cleansing foam. This gets your skin adequately clean of all makeup and dirt of the day.
The next step is “double moisturize” – lotion and emulsion. There is no “toner” to “close pores” or “clean off residual dirt”. Lotion, often referred to as “toner” by some is the first step of adding moisture to your skin. This is the reason you are usually advised to pat on your lotion. You could use your hands or a cotton pad but you are advised to pat it on your skin to get the lotion into the skin and to cool down the skin. Try it if you don’t believe me – it works 🙂 This is also the reason that most “lotions” in Asian brands can be used as a mask – there is no harm to it being left on your skin because its meant to be.
One exception I’ve used is the Madara Deep Comfort Toner that is a wipe off toner but more moisturizing for my skin than normal “toners”. Sort of falls in the middle 🙂
Follow the instructions on your toner or lotion bottle
At the end of the day, my advise is to follow the instructions on the bottle of toner or lotion that you just purchased. There’s no point asking if a lotion should be wiped on when it says to be patted on because that’s not how it works best. Ultimately, you want the best out of your skin care and you’d get the best out of following instructions.
If you are using a lotion from an Asian brand, a mindset change is in order. Its time to stop thinking of “lotion” as “toner” because it performs a function quite different to that of “toner”.
On a personal note, I prefer the Asian concept of using a “lotion” and I have been for years – I started by using the Kanebo Blanchir Clear Conditioner so patting on a toner is not alien to me. It did take a bit of a mindset shift for me in the beginning, but once I got my head round the idea that a lotion is NOT a toner, things fell into place 🙂
Are you confused about the use of toners and lotions? How do you feel about either?
Paris B
Connie says
ohhhhhhh…. I get it now.
In that case, I’m pro-toner 🙂 At least the Asian ones. I find that they do make a difference to my skin
ParisB says
Yes I found myself prefering the Asian concept of “double moisturizing” too. It doesn’t work for everyone though. I think those with oilier skins won’t like it.
plue says
I prefer patting it on even though it takes a bit more time, cuz i’d see the effect like almost immediately and not as sticky as when i am using cotton pads. but that said it also depends on the texture of the toner/ lotion yes?
so far i have using asian lotions, so ya, patting it on works better! 😀 western ones are better off with cotton pads 😀
ParisB says
Yep most certainly depends on the type of the toner/lotion in question. Most Asian brands will require you to pat it on. I sometimes like wetting a cotton pad with lotion and then patting it on the skin – it makes the skin so much cooler
jon says
As a guy I think my skin is oilier than most women. So if Japanese toners/lotions offer moisturizing benefits, would it make sense for me just to use the lotion as a daytime moisturizer ? Most oil free light moisturizers I use make my face oily within 2 hours or less. I am tempted to get the Shiseido Men Hydration Lotion and I believe it is applied by patting on too.
ParisB says
Personally I’d say no, the Japanese lotion does not offer sufficient moisture. You’d still need a proper moisturizer. Perhaps try using a moisturizer with oil control properties. I believe L’Oreal Men has one or Garnier. I don’t think the men in my life have gone near Shiseido although they used to use Kanebo 🙂
Hanny says
Hmmmm, the step 2 in the Clinique 3 step thingy is called a Lotion, but it works like a toner, per the instructions on the box, hahahaha. ^.^ But I don’t dare to try other stuff, YET. Strangely, the harsher stuff works better on me. ^.^
ParisB says
Yup Clinique’s concept is that of exfoliation. I think it works well for problem or oily skin. It was too harsh for me.
Syen says
I’m an ardent fan of Clinique’s Lotion too, although that one works as a toner, no qualms about that. And you’re right, I think stuff like that works better for us oily girls. =P
xin says
u know what? I usually decide which method to use depending on the texture of the toner – if it is the thicker kind, i use pat; the diluted ones i use wipe. lol.
ParisB says
hehe read the instructions la girl! Some lotions dont’ work as well when wiped on 😉
jon says
I have tried a lot of oil control products and stopped short of using foundation. Those oil control products never work for my t zone. Recently I have tried the Biore sunscreen and so that is the only product that actually controls the shine and oil but I don’t really like the mask like texture. I spoke to a few Shiseido SAs at different counters and some tell me I can use the Hydrating Lotion alone and some others tell me to use a moisturizer after. Btw, the Shiseido Men Hydrating Lotion costs RM130 for 150ml…is that considered expensive for a Japanese type toner ?
ParisB says
That’s about average price for department store skincare. Try the Vichy Normaderm moisturizer and Pro Mat. Many people have reported good results with it.
jon says
I was given samples of both the Vichy moisturizer and Pro Mat. Didn’t work well for me. Can a guy use the Smashbox Anti Shine ? I had a peep at it a few weeks back and it looks tinted.
ParisB says
Well if you don’t mind having colour on your skin and if it matches your skintone, and if it might help control shine, I don’t see why not! 🙂
giddy tigress says
I’m using Dermalogica (a US brand) and I pat it on. LOVE it!
ParisB says
I think Dermalogica has that spray on mist thing? That you can pat on? I love that! I had a sample
Sue says
I know there’s another way which is by spraying and then patting on after that. 🙂 Also, patting can save more than using cotton pads. 😛
ParisB says
That’s an option too and some toners do come with a spray mister – definitely saves more than using cotton pads – but not all lotions work well that way. I found that some brands work better just patted into the skin because it cools down the skin e.g. Kanebo & Laneige
Fr0nd says
I use a hydrating spray after double cleansing and before my serums… patted on usually. I also spray it throughout the day.
I tried the cotton pad method and found that with double cleansing, nothing showed up on the pad PLUS it left my skin feeling tighter… not a fun feeling. So I went back to patting everything in. My skin is doing great.
guess I’m not a toner user. 😛
ParisB says
Is that like the thermal water sprays? That’s an option to a toner/lotion that some people use. Once you double cleanse as we do, using a toner for extra cleansing is just redundant I’ve found 🙂
Fr0nd says
sorta… here’s the ingredient list for my hydrating mist (I’ve rebranded it and am selling it online – let me know if you’d like a small sample :P).
Aloe barbadensis (Organic Aloe) Leaf Juice, Kosher Vegetable Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethlaminoethanol (DMAE Bitartrate ), Methylsulfonylmethane, MSM, Salix nigra (Black Willowbark) Extract, Polysorbate, Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree) Essential Oil, Tetrasodium Edta, Citric Acid
what do you think of the list? I use this for all sorts of things from a quick pick me up mist to diluting some of my thicker creams before application.
Jasmine says
Yes, Paris, you’re absolutely right. The formulations of East vs West toners are very different too. The Western toners often have Sodium Hydroxide or Sodium Laureth Sulfate in them, or even alcohol. They are designed to be quickly swiped to really remove all traces of dirt or oil (the hydroxide neutralises the acidity of sebum).
A good question is whether we can actually have the best of both worlds by toning and then patting down lotion. In my opinion, I think it really depends on the first toner, because while some formulations are not likely to react with the lotion, others with more aggressive ingredients could disrupt the benefits of the lotion. 🙂
ParisB says
Perhaps we could balance the exfoliating benefits of wipe off toners with the hydrating benefits of pat on lotions? 🙂 thanks for sharing your thoughts on this and for the science behind it 🙂
Lynn says
using a toner dropped a question on me when i started using dermalogica’s multi active toner
the thing is, its in a spray spritz form, much like a facial mist
i always thought that toners are meant to be poured (alittle) on a cotton wool and wipe all over the face.
ParisB says
I’ve tried this one. Just spray it on and follow up with moisturizer. Personally I won’t think so much about what its called and just follow instructions. Not all “toners” are made for use the same way
domncroxd says
i personally prefer a toner because i have very oily skin and i find that anything labelled as ‘lotion’ gives me even oilier skin : (
ParisB says
Yup I’ve realised those with oily skin tend to find a toner beneficial. At least you’ve worked that out! 🙂
Bryan says
My favourite for my combination skin is Pore Minimizing Boosting Lotion by Estee Lauder. I use put a few drops on palm and pat on face. Keep some in fridge as well for a quick pick me up during hot days 🙂
ParisB says
Ooh that sounds lovely on a hot day! I haven’t come across this one yet
Tine says
I’m too lazy to pat it on and wait for it to dry. So swipe swipe swipe! 😛
Stephanie/Yukaeshi says
It’s either follow the instructions on the bottle of toner/lotion, or follow the instruction of the facialist/dermatologist who recommended the product to you. In my case I use Dermalogica’s Soothing Protection Spray- and was told to spray it onto my hand(s) and pat it all over my face much like applying serum/moisturiser. The bottle said to spray directly all over the face, though 😛
DeesView says
Dear Toner or Lotion gurls,
i think lotion or toner, wipe off or pat on … it’s just different ways to create interest in using the product and end of the day make you buy more and more..
if you’d ask a professional dermatologist or plastic surgeon anything about the need of lotion or toner, i guess, they will tell you that they are all rubbish..
ParisB says
Which is why ultimately, the question whether toner is necessary applies. If it works for our skins, there’s no harm in using it. If anyone can get by without it, so be it! I got by for a long time without using toner or lotion but I find my skin now looks and feels better if I use a moisturizing lotion prior to moisturizer. Oily skin girls feel an exfoliating toner is better for them. Actually, I know of people who go to dermatologists they use a toner too except its not called that – its the 2nd step 😛