I was at the hairdresser during the week, which is where I get my fill of women’s magazines. I spend a lot of time online, and immersed in the world of beauty, but there is something still very calming and comforting about turning the pages of a glossy. While I don’t get my information about beauty products from magazines anymore, it’s still nice to see something you recognise in there.
But I also noticed something else quite glaring.
Like the pressure on women, magazines are getting thinner and thinner. This is a far cry from the days of yore, when magazines used to weigh a ton and a half, and resemble the telephone directory. Kids, you do know what a telephone directory looks like right? LOL 😛
That’s when it struck me – where are all the ads? 😯
Big beauty brands aren’t taking out print advertisements
Now, I’m not saying it’s a good or a bad thing, that the pages of ads that used to form the majority of the glossies, now form the minority of pages. What I did notice however, was that many of the big players were conspicuously missing.
I remember that most of the first few pages of a magazine (naturally, I’m referring to women’s magazines here, not a computer magazine) tend to be dominated by two-page ad spreads by the big beauty brands – Estee Lauder, Lancome, Dior, Chanel – who are all at forefront and centre, pushing their newest and latest skincare or makeup innovations. In March, when whitening/brightening skincare floods the market, the first few pages would always feature bright images, fair women, the newest products to brighten your skintone. This time, I didn’t see that at all.
I had heard through the grapevine, that the Estee Lauder group had pulled all print ads this year, but I did not realise it till I flipped through various local mags, just how true it was. It might even be extended to the L’Oreal group because I did not notice any Lancome or Kerastase ads either. Usually, these ads are quite noticeable. It’s hard not to notice a beautifully photoshopped woman spread across 2 pages of a magazine LOL! 😀
When I talked to beauty and magazine editors, the general rumbling was that getting ad money from brands was like getting water out of a stone. I naturally got the side-eye, because everyone had been told that print ad money was going to the digital scene but I was quick to assure them (and you), that I wasn’t seeing the big bucks. I wish 😛 I did notice however, that it was primarily beauty ads that were reduced. Fashion ads still looked to be going strong, so I’m not sure if fashion is seeing the same trend.
On the flipside however, I did notice ad pages from some brands that I’d not have otherwise paid attention to. Conspicuously, it was The Face Shop and Shiseido with ads towards the front pages of the magazine as opposed to the middle portions. I noticed their ads quite prominently featured in Female and Her World, just off the top of my head, and some other brands that you don’t normally see at the forefront of the magazines.
So all these got me thinking (because there’s a lot of time to spend thinking in the hairdresser’s chair).
Might this reduction in ads by the big beauty brands bring more variety to our magazines?
From what I understand, magazines, being a business, need the ad money. When a certain brand takes out a certain number of ad pages, thereby giving the magazine a certain amount of income, they are usually given more prominent features for their products. Brands recognise that, and so do magazines. It’s a symbiotic relationship, and that’s why you won’t see (much if any) critique in a magazine – they depend on the ad money for survival. (Happening now in blogs/online as well, but that’s a whole new discussion altogether!)
Up till now, the old and major beauty brands like Estee Lauder, Lancome, Dior, Chanel etc have been strong players in the market because they used to take out a lot of print ads in all the major magazines, so their products tend to get top billing. Those who read magazines will naturally notice them and remember them. This, I believe is true up till now. Flip through the older magazines (up to last year, 2016), and you’ll see the first 10 pages at least, dominated by Estee Lauder, Lancome, Dior and Chanel in varying combinations or order.
If these big brands have pulled their print ad budget, although there are still press junkets and wining and dining, print magazines will, naturally, eventually reduce their features over time. Magazines need money to survive. Instead, they may start featuring other brands or products that now choose to advertise; brands that may not have been given as much prominence before this. I noticed that more smaller brands were having products highlighted in the pages, than before.
Perhaps, we will finally see a break in the domination of the beauty pages by the traditional big name brands. I might even call it and say that we may see an increase in Korean brands being featured, whether by way of ads or product feature selection. They have the budget and from what I see, they aren’t averse to taking out advertisements in any manner or form.
If this happens, I think that it’ll be a good thing. For readers anyway, and in a manner of speaking, for the smaller brands who now choose to advertise. If the magazines start showcasing other brands in their features, that may have been sidelined or given less prominence before, then it might bring more interest to that brand or product. What this means for magazine readers is that they may be seeing more variety in terms of the brands available to them. That for me, is a good thing. Variety is always a good thing, and I’m rather looking forward to seeing how the magazines shift to accommodate this shift in ad-spend approach by the big beauty brands.
Going purely digital is a double-edged sword
When I spoke to some people in the know, I was told that many brands were going purely digital with their ad money because that’s where the young and trendy are. There is a great emphasis placed on wooing the young, which I personally feel is misplaced, but that’s something I’d reserve for another day because I do feel quite strongly about it (as a more matured – read: older – beauty consumer). Some print magazines also have a web presence or have built one, to harness this “digital ad income”. But truth to tell, many of them are merely a shadow of their print selves. I don’t read them either unless I happen to stumble on them on my internet trails.
For now, in a way, I feel that this decision for beauty brands to move ad revenue away from print to purely digital, is a double-edged sword. It could work in their favour, or it could stifle their growth and visibility. As much as everyone says that the future is digital, my take on a digital life is that you have to CHOOSE to go online, where you MAY be served a particular digital ad. While many of us are online, many also aren’t or choose to restrict their time online. And online, you can employ things like ad-blocker scripts or plugins so you don’t see the ads; and if you’re anything like me, you’re blind to ads anyway. Online ads are also very targeted, so what you see isn’t necessarily what someone else sees. It’s all quite complicated, but the upshot is, you have to be online to see the ad and you can’t share it with your friends.
Personally speaking, I haven’t noticed or seen any online ads by any of the major beauty players. I’m not on Facebook very much (no personal profile) so if that’s where the ads are, I’m definitely not seeing them. I do realise I’m in the minority when it comes to Facebook, but I’m not alone. I haven’t seen an Estee Lauder or Clinique ad in what seems like months, now I think about it. Perhaps I’m not going to the right pages, or not browsing correctly (ads shown to me tend to be tech related, food related or dress and sneakers related – yep, that’s my browsing pattern right there!), and there is an impact on the consumer psyche, because I had put both these brands on the back burner of my consciousness. There was nothing to remind me of their existence and to be honest, I’d forgotten about them save for the one or two products I may currently use. If I didn’t hear from these brands at all (which I hardly do), I’d literally have skipped them over.
By contrast, a magazine is like a book. You can browse at it at your leisure, without worrying it’ll run out of batteries. You can share it with a friend, or if someone is flipping through a magazine, you can look over their shoulder (bad habit, but hey we all do it!). I personally feel you get more eyeballs on a print ad than in digital. Speaking personally, I will notice an ad in a magazine – I may not necessarily notice it online because I’ve grown accustomed to ignoring ads so now it hits my blind spot.
By way of example, I’ve been in the market for a food processor for a while now, but with the variety in the market, I haven’t been able to settle on one. While flipping through the magazine (at a separate hairdresser trip) I came across a few pages (ok it was really an advertorial) for the Panasonic MK-F800 food processor and I’ve been pretty much obsessed with it since LOL! I don’t get ads in my internet browsing, for food processors. A magazine gave me the idea to consider one particular model. That’s what I mean about targeted ads. Online, it’s very targeted to your browsing and reading habits. A magazine carpet bombs you with information. Some stick, some don’t. In my case, I’m still obsessed with that Panasonic MK-F800 – I need to buy it … don’t I? 😛
I guess what I’m saying therefore is that I personally feel that there is still a place for print ads. Perhaps not in the volume that it used to be, but to shut it out totally is rather like putting blinkers on a horse. The future is forward, but it is wide-angle, not tunnel-vision.
Have you noticed this shift or reduction in print ads in magazines? Do you still read or flip through magazines or do you just go online?
I’m probably as guilty as the next person for not buying magazines. But I never have because they just don’t interest me enough to own them. But I enjoy browsing through them especially in waiting rooms or at the hairdressers, and I especially love seeing ads in old magazines. The hair! The makeup! The (now discontinued) brand new products! So much fun! We’d lose that once everything goes online and that would be a pity. Your thoughts welcome 🙂
Paris B
Note: This is my observation based on the local magazines I flipped through and people I talked to here in Malaysia. I do not know what magazines elsewhere are like or if the same observations hold true. Feel free to share, if it’s different where you live.
When I was still working in Malaysia, I worked for that same group of magazines popped out at every single PR event (*color* inc, *cough*). The main problem with every one of the magazines was the lessening of ads, which was a symptom of the shrinking economy. Everyone has less budget for advertising, not only beauty brands, but even furniture and home appliances.
In my experience in the magazine industry, the ad itself forms a big chunk of the revenue. However, there are other forms of advertisement in the form of product mentions in an article and actually composing write-ups regarding the product. These forms of advertising are cheaper than say a full-paged ad. This would work for the advertiser more easily if they have smaller budgets.
OR things could go the other way, where the companies take out a big ad and has a “package” of X number of product mentions and a two-page writeup solely on a new product.
LOL thanks for sharing your insider view, Hanny 😀 I can see that it’s a budgetary issue, but the brands actually then tell me that it isn’t, they’re going “digital” – whatever that means! What I noticed was that aside from the “advertorials” there were more smaller companies taking out ads than before. It was curious because on the one hand, the big companies are pulling out of print ads and on the other hand, smaller companies are filling the space. I think that will change the dynamics of the magazine too, because naturally, coverage will be given to these smaller brands over time – you always please the advertiser! 😉
I just stopped buying women magazines as I prefer reading or checking out Instagram of lifestyle blogs aka like yours ?. I need short and fast info nowadays and my social media helps to sort out my preference and info.
Aww I’m a lifestyle blog! hehe… But you are right about changing preferences. I have never bought a magazine to be honest, unless I’m in it (perasan LOL!) but I do enjoy flipping through them.
I still enjoy reading beauty and fashion magazines but I read them selectively. For local magazines, I prefer to see their beauty topics (just to see which products are available in Msia’s market and their prices) but for Japanese or Taiwan based magazine, their fashion, mix and match columns are really helpful (cause they are usually targeted for readers who wishes to spend less on clothings).
However, seeing a bunch of ads in a magazine reduces my mood to purchase the magazine to read at home. Altho some of the ads’ graphics are nice to see, as a poor younger generation, I don’t think I should pay for it since I can get the ads thru mails and flyers too.
Reducing ads could probably give space for the magazine itself to grow in content; despite this, the company may also cut down the writers and employees’ salary or increase their workload in order to support the operation of the magazine. I don’t know much about this industry, this is just something I get to know from a friend who worked as a writer in a local beauty chinese magazines which operated since 1970s. How sad.
I can’t read Mandarin but I have flipped through some Japanese/Taiwanese magazines and even some local Chinese mags and from the photos, I can tell how helpful they are. I find the ones where they have step by step photos of how to apply makeup especially useful, because you hardly ever see that in English magazines. In terms of quality therefore, I feel that the Chinese mags are of better quality than English mags in terms of education. To be honest, while we’d hope that the mags will generate better content to encourage people to buy, I don’t see it happening. I’m not surprised that salaries are cut or that workload is increased because there’s so much to cover these days. Not only do they have to cover their print articles, there’s still the social media side to handle as well. I know that when I go to beauty events, the beauty writers are just as busy taking photos and posting on Instagram and Facebook because everyone needs to get the news out NOW! I do think that the print industry is in its sunset years, but I do also think that there’s a place for them. They just have to find their niche and realise that the days of big spending ad dollars are over.
Publishing, my kind of topic 😀
I specialized in print publishing before this. A few years ago I saw a dip in the print so I moved to digital publishing. I still speak fondly about magazine because it is what I love to do (till now) and it is quite sad that what I predicted 5 years ago is now half way true.
Big players such as Estee Lauder Group and L’Oreal Group booked their premium magazine slots way earlier and renewed their contract again and again so small players didn’t stand a chance of getting a good ad position. So when these big players starts to cut down or pull out from magazine, magazines have no choice but to offer at a lower rate to other brands. Ads, advertorials, product placements, special supplements are all income for magazines. I have not seen any good magazine freebies since the Elle X Benefit issue.
With magazine ad cuts, features or writeups will be cut too. Understandably these are add-ons or packaged in when they booked ad slots. If you didn’t advertise, why should I give you a full page write up or special feature? It’s a bread and butter thing. Going to press trip or product launches doesn’t pay for the company bills.
I don’t know if I should be happy or sad that the money goes to “digital” because like you said, we are not seeing the $$$ lol. Beauty brands digital budget usually goes to Youtube advertising, and Malaysia is more on Facebook advertising and sometimes you’ll see Instagram ads too.
I’m actually quite happy to see smaller brands and products being featured in magazines. So often, the pages are dominated by the big names that it’s easy to overlook the smaller players who may have just as effective or good products but don’t get a look in, because of the big ad dollars. That said, I am not surprised at the direction that ad dollars are going, and I’m not surprised that I’m not seeing these ad dollars, because as you’ve pointed out, they’re headed the way of YouTube and Instagram. Nothing against those who make their money there. But I do wonder how sustainable it will all be in the long run, because as I said, if I don’t follow a particular person on Instagram or Facebook and I don’t watch YouTube, I miss out on what’s new. And that’s just wrong somehow
I have to confessed that it has been years since I shelled out money to purchaser a print magazine although I totally get the nostalgia associated “hard copy” magazines. Even when it comes to novels, I am yet to migrate to digital (will I ever?) so there’s even less of a chance that I would do so for magazines.
That said, even back then, I used to LOATHE the many full page ads taken out by premium beauty companies which dominated the front pages of a print magazine. I’d purposely fan the pages until I came to the last of such ads and just flip the entire block of pages and start immediately on the “substantive” part of the magazine. I also often felt cheated as a consumer because I paid good money to be forced to look at ads shoved in my face.
If these ads were to go digital, I am making a guess that I’d be even more cheesed off as they might well come in the form of pop ups (hate those with a passion!) or diselit in between articles like what’s happening on social media.
That’s what I see from a consumer’s point of view. In short, whether these beauty ads remain in mainstream print or go digital, it wouldn’t make much of a difference to this individual at least.
Now, to take a detour off the topic at hand, I would also like to put it out there that I no longer find the content in such magazines entertaining much less useful. That is the main reason that I stopped reading magazines. Ever since I stumbled upon beauty blogs, I have found that they (selected ones) offer me much more substance than beauty magazines. The content in beauty magazines are often over-simplified, a cover for promoting certain products and often, downright patronising in presentation. Simply put, I didn’t feel like I was getting my money’s worth and was instead coerced into viewing too many ads.
I’ll end by saying that ads barely register anything with me anyway and in fact, often result in some form of reverse psychology instead. If an ad annoys me too much by popping up in my face once too often or are too slapstick (TV ads), I do actually consciously avoid that product. On “principle” la konon LOL!
At least you’d shelled out money before. I never have (so I’m really one to talk LOL!) But it’s mostly because I’m just not into mags. I flip through them as a way to pass the time, but there’s hardly much that I actually “read” in there. That said, I think, unlike many people here, while I complained at how many ads there were in a mag, I actually really liked seeing them and observing the ways the consumer was being pitched to. I found it absolutely fascinating! But if I were to pay for it, I think I’d be pissed off too! Speaking personally, I hardly see many beauty ads online and sometimes, it bums me. I like ads. I like commercials, especially if they’re clever. I don’t like them interrupting my TV shows, but it allows for snack and pee breaks LOL! I think as much as blogs have reportedly killed print, I also think that blogs are now killing themselves by essentially becoming a version of a magazine – slick editorials and photos, large pictures with little content and loads of ads encouraging you to buy, buy, buy. What’s next eh?
Interesting that you’re kinda doing battle for the print guys, PB 🙂
I think the keyword here is content and it’s something bloggers/KOLs/writers/etc. and brands should pay particular attention to.
People will pay (generally, not all unfortunately) for good content. I had a long, standing order with Kinokuniya every month for a hefty stack of magazines but I killed it recently. I don’t mind ads – some are beautifully executed. What I don’t like are those “editorials” that are blatant ADvertorials.
Something like your recent Chanel review, I appreciate – it’s a good balance. The brand paid for your trip, obviously desiring a good review. Despite that, you kept your readers (who appreciate your candor) firmly in mind while writing the post. Well done!
*steps off her soapbox 🙂
What can I say? I like to root for the underdog LOL! 😀 But you are absolutely right about content being king. It is what every blogging site will tell you to focus on. Yet, what is content? Words? Photos? So many blog posts today are in fact thinly (or not so thinly) veiled advertorials. Whenever I see a post that refers to a product off hand, it screams at me “ADVERTORIAL” in 10 feet high letters, especially when it isn’t disclosed. I’m fine if it’s disclosed. I can choose not to read it, or just read to see what’s it all about. But lack of disclosure kills me 😛 But I can also understand how and why mags can’t do the sort of critique, especially of beauty, that I, as a blogger can. They need the ad money one way or another, and the luxe press trips are too fun to give up. I’m seeing that happen now among bloggers and YouTubers and Instagrammers. Soon, what is there to distinguish these online media that are so sought after by brands, from the print media? Nothing because integrity and critique is no longer in play.
a few weeks ago I saw a study which shows how much content versus ads were in women’s magazines – approximately 20:80 ratio. It would be good to see a reversal although I’ll have to admit that I mostly buy magazines specifically for the ads and editorials because I like looking at the photography!
Ah, I’m pretty much like you Shamim! I love looking at the ads although I don’t necessarily buy the mags LOL! I sometimes think that increased or better content in mags isn’t hard, but perhaps the era of self-publishing (like blogs) has made people think they don’t actually need to work with a magazine anymore to achieve the same status as that of an editor. These days, everyone is an editor, and gets front row seats at fashion shows and are feted with luxury press trips. Why stick to a full time job, when you get the perks while doing it in your own time?
Too true, these days fashion bloggers and vloggers are editors in their own right. Although I was so sad to see my dream agency ( which reps creatives) close down, perhaps due to the lack of jobs available for photographers, makeup artists and stylists
That’s kind of sad that there are businesses on the side that are forced to close, that are related to the print industry. As they say, we can be anything now – even our own stylists, photographers and editors all in one 😀
About 20 years ago when I was a poor student – I still found ways to buy the odd Cleo magazine – I remember throughout my teens, when I was supposed to be studying – I would secretly join and WIN slogan writing competitions by cutting out the backs of my Mum’s Her World mags. The cat was let out of the bag when I sheepishly showed her the letters of notifications and she had to drive me all the way to some “printing factory” or magazine office of I pick up my prizes – I suspect she was both proud and pissed off at the same time.
when I came back from studying in Australia – 30% of my TNT jumbo consisted of magazines – I remember my mum yelling at my “collection”.
These days, the only mags I read are either in hotels, planes or at the hair salons.
I agree that this is the sign of times even for cosmetic conglomerates – adspend simply dips when they have to use faces like Kendall Jenner.
But sometimes magazines themselves are to be blamed – their contents are just meh so to speak – repetitive and predictable.
The “I want it now” mentality is also causing this paradigm shift – with everything at my fingertips – I look for what I want when I want. No longer do I need to wait for the 25th of the month to get next month’s magazine.
Will printed media still exist in 20 years time ?
I hope so !! There’s nothing more satisfying than turning something physical instead of a cold, metallic iPad.
Happy weekend everybody
LOL at you secretly entering contests and winning them! 😀 Good on you! I was one of those going “Eee, so lucky that person” without ever entering a contest haha! 😀 But you are also right about magazine content being a little too blah in this day and age. I often wonder if it’s due to the dearth of good writers joining the industry – you can’t grow if you don’t have the talent – or if it’s just magazines not realising this. But I hear you about everything needing to be now, now, now. By the time a mag comes out with an article on a product, it’s either already on the shelves, or it’s sold out. It’s a hard balance for them to strike too and like you, I do hope print remains because honestly, I get tired of the whole digital thing (ironic!) because it’s so temporary.
I love to flip through an actual magazine. Not fond of reading it on phone or tablet. It’s bad for the eyes. As with ads, I’m not fond of ads. I’d glance through and carry on reading stuff that I want to read. On the other hand, magazines lack proper contents these days. Sometimes, I find them recycling articles. I only buy selected magazines nowadays. It’s a pleasant surprise to see you in the magazine the other day.
Thanks for noticing 🙂 But you’re right about content. To be honest, I have not really come across much, if any memorable content from magazines over the years. That said, I don’t read many magazines so I can’t say I pay a lot of attention to the content. A lot of the time, I skim. I don’t even read a lot of interviews with celebrities, because a lot of it doesn’t interest me. Perhaps it’s just our local mags? It’s hard to say to be honest.
I don’t know why people read interviews with celebrities. I don’t find it interesting, except for selected few (not celebrities). Local mags are getting boring, IMO. I buy selected mags, provided they have interesting contents. But it’s rare.
I think people read because they’re inherently kepoh 😛 I sometimes do, just to see how the approach to the interview is done. So it’s mostly technique I’m looking for instead of content