Korean skincare. You can’t MOVE for the K-pop wave that’s not only captured our culinary tastebuds (mmm kimchi…) and formulated TV series, but that has captured our dressing tables and taken over skincare routines the world over.
The choices of brands and products coming out of Korea are staggering, and if I’m to be honest, very confusing. I’m going to be the first to hold my hand up and admit that I am not in tune with Korean skincare brands in general. Things have moved on so far since I started paying attention about 5 years ago, before the K-pop explosion, and I’ve moved on since. So, I’d freely admit that I’m a little out of date with the newest and latest Korean skincare brands and products.
Yet, despite this, I have paid attention to the actual products, and the famed 10-step Korean skincare routine, and I think I’ve figured out why the routine and skincare work, and have captured the imagination of so many people the world over.
Korean skincare has a strong focus on hydration
The one thing I noticed most significantly, is the focus on hydration in Korean brand skincare. In many Korean skincare brands, you will find that their key range focuses on hydration. 4 key products in the routine – toner, essence, sheet mask and sleeping mask – are mostly tailored to infuse skin with hydration.
This focus on the use of hydrating products weren’t quite at the forefront of most Western skincare brands. In many cases, they still aren’t, but they’re getting there. Hydrating serums can now be found in many brands, albeit the more cult or niche brands, as opposed to the large global conglomerates.
Hydration, as I’ve mentioned before, is really the secret to better skin. It plumps up your skin, which makes it look younger and more dewy, it makes your skin look clearer and more healthy and it makes you look younger and better. This is why, although I’m not into using Korean skincare, I focus on hydrating products in my skincare routine. Get your hydration right, and everything else will fall into place. Korean skincare has made it easy for us. Their cleansers do leave a lot to be desired though, as I think they’re generally too drying.
Layering products make them more effective
The key to using Korean skincare is layering. Aside from the oil-foam double cleansing routine (which to me, originated with the Japanese skincare, but which I find a little too harsh in comparison to a balm-cream double cleanse) the rest of Korean skincare are made to be layered.
Starting with the Toner/Lotion, which is usually a hydrating product that is patted on, continued with the essence and emulsion and perhaps a sleeping mask, you are advised to apply thin layers of each on your skin. In a way, this makes sense. Layering products in thin layers, from light to heavier textured lotions or creams actually makes them more effective when following a hydrating skincare routine. I think it’s because it allows each layer to penetrate the skin better, as you do not end up with a heavy, thick greasy goo on your skin, but light textures, that absorb more easily into the skin. They also feel far more comfortable, which is why people don’t mind putting them on!
Korean skincare have a lighter texture which facilitates layering
The infamous 10 or 12-step Korean skincare routine can scare the uninitiated, who think that a 3-step is all you need. But it’s not rocket science, and it isn’t as scary as it seems, because for the most part, Korean skincare tends to have lighter textures, featuring lotions and emulsions instead of heavy creams. I could be wrong, as I don’t know ALL Korean skincare, but the ones I’ve observed tend to have these sort of formula. Creams are usually reserved for the very high end brands or for the skincare lines targeted at more matured skin.
This lighter, more liquid texture makes it more comfortable to carry out the 4-5 steps of the hydration routine, as opposed to trying it with 4-5 layers of thick, silicone-filled product. That’s the other thing I’ve noticed with Korean skincare – they don’t have a strong silicone feel and slip to them. So, when you layer the products, they seem to mesh with each other and sink into the skin, instead of sitting on top of the skin the way many moisturisers do.
Korean skincare focuses on essences and serums
This one I think is another of the key things about Korean skincare that makes them effective. Very often, Korean skincare will require the use of at least one essence product. This is sometimes referred to as serum and like Western skincare, this essence or serum is usually the most potent product in the range. This is the one infused with the most effective and active ingredients that makes that skincare range work.
When I learned about skincare back in the day, you only ever heard about a 3-step routine – Cleanse, Tone, Moisturise. No one told me that I should be using a serum, because that would be the true game-changer. Not the moisturiser. The serums are where we are at when it comes to effective skincare. You can use any old moisturiser, but not the serum.
In Korean skincare however, I’ve noticed that right from the beginning the essence is put forward, topped up with an emulsion, instead of a heavy moisturiser. So, people are now more exposed to using essence and serums and are more conscious of having that step in a skincare routine. Serums are the game-changers.
Korean skincare is innovative and affordable
For the most part, there is such strong competition among the many Korean skincare brands available, that prices are for the most part, affordable. When skincare is affordable, people are more willing to use generous amounts of them without feeling guilty.
Contrast this with a brand that might cost hundreds for a tub of cream or a serum. Oft times, I hear people say “Oh, this serum is so expensive, so I shall only use 2 drops instead of the recommended 1 pump” But this will be a mistake, because it might well be that the 1 pump would be what makes it effective. But when a product runs out quickly, and you feel the pinch when replenishing, you’d be more loathe to replenish, or to use it up.
With most Korean skincare, aside from the hassle you may need to buy the products you want from overseas, the prices are usually very competitive. Sheet masks can be got for a song, so you don’t feel guilty using them 3 times a week. Contrast that with an expensive SK-II sheet mask that you’ll save for “a special occasion” (that probably never comes). Yet, 3 times a week with a sheet mask will give you nicely hydrated skin, and possibly better looking skin than if you were using an expensive product that you only apply sparingly.
Korean skincare is also pretty innovative, with their use of horse oil, snail mucus, bee venom, nightingale poop (or is that Japanese?!) and what else have you. When I was paying attention, it was snail mucus. I think it’s moved on since. While I’m not the first person to buy into these rather gimmicky ingredients, I can’t deny that they’re trying things that many other skincare brands would not. Perhaps they work, perhaps they don’t, but the novelty factor sells too!
The Korean skincare routine works but you can replicate it without their products
The upshot of this, is that I think that the Korean skincare routine works. If you’ve never used a skincare routine so focused on hydration before this, or have never really used a serum or sheet or sleeping masks, then you will notice the benefits almost immediately. A lot of people have dehydrated skin without even realising it, and the infusion of hydration is what makes the big change to your skin, and improves it over time, alongside other active ingredients.
However, I don’t necessarily buy into their products, I didn’t have a great experience many years ago (too much alcohol and rather mediocre results), and while I realise that things have moved on dramatically since, I haven’t found the time nor energy to study Korean skincare brands in depth, as they change and move so quickly. So, what I do is to adopt the routine, but to modify it, using other brands of skincare with similar textures, and with a similar strong focus on hydration.
In general, the Korean skincare routine is thus:-
Cleansing oil and remove makeup -> Foam cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Toner/Lotion -> Treatment Essence -> Serum (optional) -> Eye Cream -> Emulsion (moisturiser) -> Sunscreen (day) or Sleeping Mask (night)
You don’t need all of them, just customize whichever feels right for your skin. I usually do the double cleanse, double moisturise, serum, oil/moisturiser, sunscreen daily.
The key here I feel, is to have a routine and to stick to it. Sure, you can add and subtract steps as you go along. It’s all to do with understanding your skin and what it needs, and what works. You don’t necessarily need to use Korean brand products to enjoy the Korean skincare routine – these days, many Western brands have similar sorts of textures and products (albeit not in all or many of the major department store brands so you might have to look to the organic or niche skincare brands) so you can enjoy the benefits of the routine, if you don’t want to buy into the K-pop hype. That’s what I do! 😀
One point to note: When I was using Japanese skincare about 10 years ago, they practise a similar sort of skincare routine. You will still see this similar routine if you were to go to brands like Kose, Kanebo or Shiseido so I’m really no stranger to these seemingly complicated routines. When I told people I used about 9 steps in my skincare before, they thought I was mad. Now, these same people extol the virtues of a 12 step routine 😛 So, this isn’t really a Korean routine as it were, but I think the Koreans are just better at marketing it that way, due to the large number of affordable brands available 😛
Do you adopt a Korean skincare routine? Are you a fan of Korean skincare brands and if you are, what do you recommend?
This is my view, naturally, of what I think works. As I’ve said at top, I don’t use many Korean brands, but I read a lot, and from my understanding of how skincare works, I think the Korean skincare routine is a good one to follow, although you don’t necessarily have to use Korean skincare to enjoy its benefits! Please share if you have favourite Korean skincare brands or products that you think I should try. I’m always game for a challenge and who knows, I might be extolling their virtues next! Hit me up, friends! 😀
Paris B
Oohhh so I have been doing the Korean skincare routine without knowing it! Hahaha!! 😀 Thanks for the informative article, Paris! I learn something everytime I read your blog 😀
Like you, I’m also not really into Korean products – I find that they don’t work as well for me as their western counterparts. For some reason their products are not moisturizing enough for me… but maybe as you say, they are meant to be layered. Maybe I just have to layer more product underneath! Lollll! I do LOVE their sheet masks though… especially the ones that are abit more expensive! They work a treat and I usually wake up the next day with glowy skin! 😀
And yes, I’m still saving that SKII mask for that “special occasion”… 😛
Aww thank you Jenn, I try to shake things up a little and share info – so boring to just do review after review right? 😉 And I didn’t realise I was also doing the Korean-ish routine! I too find their products not moisturising enough. I’m not sure why you know. I have tried creams by Sulwhasoo and they’re better, so I think it’s to do with quality. I do personally feel that of all the Korean brands I’ve tried, Sulwhasoo has been most impressive thus far (also the most expensive!). Time to break out that Sk2 mask before it expires 😛
I used to think that the famous 10 step Korean skincare routine was crazy (Mum has like, 13 steps in hers!) but after I’ve counted how much I use per routine, I have to eat my words because I use only a step less! The focus on hydration by the Koreans are amazing. It’s no wonder their skin looks so damn good. I’m really slow on the Korean skincare products bandwagon too but hope to change that soon. 🙂
It’s funny right? People are so fixated on the numbers they don’t realise that even a bare routine is already about 5 steps at minimum! I actually think the Koreans got it right focusing on hydration. Where they live, it’s so cold and dry, it’s only right they do or they’d be dried out husks! I can’t seem to really get on that bandwagon but there are some decent items and some decent brands. I personally think Sulwhasoo has been best for me – but they’re pricey!
I cut back on moisturisers and my skin is in its best condition.
I really think all you need is a good cleanser + moisturising toner. And once a week mask + AHA exfoliation. The rest is overkill.
While I’d respectfully disagree, I will however concede that we all know our skins best and pick the right routine that suits us 🙂 I’m with you on a good mask and AHA exfoliation as well as a moisturising toner. I would however also include a hydrating serum or at least an anti-aging serum with a moisturiser to seal it in (not necessarily using a lot of moisturisers, or even very expensive moisturisers) but that would be how I do it. Not saying I”m right of course – just that my older skin loves that 😉
I love Korean skincare! I’m a huge fan of Amore Pacific products (not actually the brand itself but the brands under it). I’ve used Laneige, Hera, couple of products from Iope, some Innisfree and currently I love love love Sulwhasoo. It’s a bit too pricey for me to use it throughout the year though, so I use it during the colder months. Have you tried the Sulwhasoo ginseng cream? I think you’ll like it.
I think my favorite Korean products are sleeping masks… have tried a ton but my favorites are still the Laneige water sleeping mask and the Sulwhasoo overnight revitalizing mask. The other item I love are first care serums/essences- I like the Hera cell bio essence and the Sulwhasoo first care serum, have yet to try others!
That’s awesome to know, Amore-Pacific is a huge brand and they make so many products! Like you, I like Sulwhasoo as a brand and their products too. Because I used to try the more affordable brands, and found them wanting, Sulwhasoo really changed my mind, but the pricing is a little hard to swallow >.< I have heard SO MUCH about the ginseng cream, but the price, OUCH! 😛 Some day maybe, if I'm feeling a little flush hehe... You like 2 of my favourite products too - Laneige Sleeping Mask and the Sulwhasoo Revitalizing Overnight Mask. Man, I love that overnight mask - it really makes my skin look amazing the next day! Definitely one I'm keeping in my routine!
I’m with you on this. I love layering skincare. I hop in and out of the bathroom in between letting the layers sink in. I don’t bother counting how many steps there are because there’s no benefit to it. If it helps keep my skin in tip top condition, I’m going to keep doing it no matter how much effort it requires. I do pare it down a tad for mornings because in between trying to gulp down coffee, setting timers and alarms and navigate around a curious Labrador who seems to be everywhere, it’s just a little less stressful for morning rush hour.
I didn’t even know it’s a Korean thing. I just started doing it because different serums target different problem areas and it became a habit. I do need to get back onboard with the masks, though. 😛
Absolutely! Good skin takes hard work – unless of course, the genes are cooperating. Otherwise, it’s just pure and simple hard work!
Many many years ago, when I was still in uni, I changed all my skincare products to a particular Korean brand skincare range and it broke me out so badly. I stayed away from Korean skincare since then, until I had to go to Seoul abt 2 years ago due to work assignment for a few months. And oh my..I rediscovered the whole new world of Korean skincare and cosmetics again. Now i love ’em!!
My favourite brands had to be Innisfree, Klairs and Sulwhasoo! I really enjoyed Innisfree’s green tea line (serum and cream) and orchid line in general. I started trying Klairs few months ago and I really like the Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Serum and Rich Moist Soothing Cream. So gentle yet it hydrates my skin really well.
That’s such an awesome story Jo! I do think the quality of ingredients and formulation have improved in Korean skincare since they were first released to the world. I remember being quite unimpressed myself, but I do like using Sulwhasoo, in general. Their products seem to work for me but I haven’t tried other brands, so I’m taking note of your favourites! 😉
I’ve been layering my skincare since I could remember. I love layering serums, and I apply toners / essences / emulsions on top of each other. Guess I’m doing something right, especially with keeping hydration levels up, because that has kept most of my other skin problems at bay. I’ve never really skipped a step in skincare because they’re all important to me. That’s from cleansers to eye creams to sunscreens 🙂
Yep! I definitely think layering is the way to go and nice light textures help a lot to make it comfortable! I always notice when my skin drops in its hydration levels. Suddenly, all the problems I thought I’d surmounted come back! Never ending challenge I tell you 😀
I have been using exclusively Korean products for two years now and my skin has never looked better. It’s not just an improvement, it’s a total transformation. There are so many bloggers on the Korean bandwagon so it’s easy for us Westerners to research. And once you have a handle on how it all works, there are scores of reliable online and ebay shops to buy the products which are shipped for free. And the products are really cheap! Why would I try and search for a Western equivalent when I can buy Korean products much cheaper online? Some recommended blogs – Fifty Shades of Snail, Snow White and the Asian Pear, Fan Serviced-B, – these women really know their stuff. They dig down into the ‘science’ behind it all. If you’re serious about Korean skincare, these are the sites to binge on! I am going to Seoul in May and just can’t wait. I’m glad I’m making the trip at this stage of my Korean skincare journey. A year ago I would have gone mad buying everything. But now I’m much more savvy – I know what ingredients to go for and I know what brands I like.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience, and for sharing the blogs that you enjoy reading for Korean product recommendations! Being rather new to this niche, it’s been a little overwhelming, so a little direction was very helpful 🙂 I hope you enjoy your trip to Seoul in May and that you pick up lots of nice goodies! oh and don’t forget the food too! 😉
What applying so many layers on the face, does yours feel sticky?
Mine does. I just use 3 layers otherwise it will ruin my foundation.
No, the trick is to use light textured products and to not use too much each time, and to allow it to absorb properly into the skin. But do whatever makes you feel most comfortable.