Last year I came across a new product launch from Lancome called Dreamtone Ultimate Dark Spot Corrector serum. We don’t have it available locally yet, but it’s supposed to come in in the coming months. I first came across it on Ponikuta last year. It was eye catching to me because the bottle is a bright fuchsia pink, and something called an “Ultimate Dark Spot Corrector” definitely gets my attention.
However, one thing perturbed me, and that was the fact that it came in 3 shades. Hang on a moment now. Why does a SKINCARE PRODUCT need to come in 3 different shades? Isn’t skincare targeted at skin TYPE as opposed to skin SHADE?
Then, early this year, I came across the launch of a new product by the Dior Capture Totale called Dreamskin. I personally love the Capture Totale skincare range. It works wonders for my skin and I’m really sold on their night cream, so this new serum targeted at fighting wrinkles, reducing dark spots, redness and firming skin and acting as a skin perfector got my attention. But then I read a little further to see what made this different or special and ….. hang on a minute, why does a skincare product contain “optical ingredients”?
A bit of back-pedalling and poking around, and I came to the realisation that both these products essentially contain makeup ingredients in skincare and wait a minute… I don’t want that!
In both these serums, I noticed that even as they profess to treat skin, they also offer these “optical ingredients” which are mineral powders to trick the eye into seeing better skin. Lancome’s Dreamtone comes in 3 shades – Light, Medium and Dark – to suit different skintones. I have asked the brand people a little more about it and have been told that it is very very sheer, to give the appearance of even toned, brighter skin.
“Is it like BB Cream?” I ask.
“Oh no, it’s not very tinted at all”
“So, is it like CC Cream then? A tint of colour in the product, like a primer?” I press.
“Erm… something like that… but it’s not makeup” They hasten to add.
Puzzled yet? Yeah so was I.
Dior’s Dreamskin doesn’t say that it come in different shades, but it does contain mineral powders (mica platelets and hollow silica microspheres) which provide the optical illusion of better looking skin.
But you know what? When I use a skincare, I want it to actually help my skin. I don’t want it to trick my eye or anyone’s eye into merely seeing good skin. I actually want it to help my skin and give me that good skin that I should be seeing, regardless of whether I use the product or not. I don’t mind that a skincare product doesn’t make my skin look good when I apply it, because that’s not what I look for in a skincare product. I have makeup for that!
I will not deny that I am a little curious about the efficacy of these “skincare with makeup” products because from experience, something usually has to give. I’m comfortable with makeup containing skincare benefits. We’ve seen a lot of that come about over the years and personally, I like that. I like that I can be wearing a makeup product and have it help my skin in one way or another.
But when the roles are reversed and they start putting makeup elements or “optical ingredients” in my skincare, I balk at embracing it because I just don’t care how my skin may look with just skincare on. I’m not that insecure that I want to pretend and fool the eye into believing I have better skin than I do. With proper care, I will. So long as a skincare product helps my skin, I’m happy. That’s most important for me. If I need to fool the eye, I’d use makeup, thank you.
Update: Tracy reminded me Vichy came up with something similar last year too which she tried. I missed that because we don’t get Vichy locally but I do remember thinking it was quite strange. Probably a much more affordable option to the Lancome and Dior ones I’ve mentioned here if you want to try something as gimmicky as this! 😛
Would you be sold on a skincare product that creates the impression of having good skin? Would it make you more likely to buy into it?
You know my thoughts. I’m wary to say the least. I can’t say I’m not intrigued, because I am, but I’m wary because it begs the question whether I need to use makeup remover in the mornings, to remove this “optical ingredient” mineral powders from my skin! Perhaps I’m viewing this too simplistically, but still, it’s food for thought because I have a funny feeling that this is the start of a new skincare “thing” and I can’t say I’m all that sold …. If you’ve tried Dreamtone or Dream Skin I’d love to hear your thoughts! 😀
Paris B
I thought the same too! I am really skeptical, and I dont think I will ever try because I dont wannna sleep with it! I believe this concept will draw some fans, though because I have talked about it with some of my friends who have uneven skintone, enlarged pores, dark spots, and they seem to be keen. To them, this temporary “illusion” will permanently help their skin look better. Trust me, these are the same ladies who will ask me why this skin care and that skin care never work on them. LOL *EVIL LAUGH*
Actually that was my thought too – how do I cleanse it? But as you said, it will appeal to those who want something that gives the appearance of working. Maybe it’s like security? I don’t know but hey, I’m sure there’s a market for it! 😀
Yup! ^_^
Anyway how’s the sample of Dreamskin goin’? Silicone, much?
Terribly so! I’m wondering if that’s what gave me all these spots! and I’m not even sensitive to silicone -_-“”
My thoughts exactly when I bought the Lancome duo eye cream last year. There was the actual eye cream, then there’s the thing I call concealer. The brand insisted it is tinted skincare that helps brighten dark circles and no makeup remover is needed. It was definitely a gimmick, and all the readers thought so too >_< I was given a sample of the Dreamskin but I haven't tried it yet. I read the description and also wondered the same thing – skincare or makeup disguised as skincare?
And the Estee Lauder Idealist Illuminating thing too. Utter crap that one, it had shimmer particles! No wonder it was illuminating 😛 Gosh yeah I remember the Lancome eye cream too and I didn’t get why they had to put a concealer in there, no matter what they say. I picked up a sample of Dreamskin but have not been impressed thus far.
So what step in your skincare routine are you supposed to put this? Before moisturizer, after? Before sunscreen, after? Maybe they are designed for the people who don’t wear sunscreen or foundation. They are out there especially in the US.
Here’s what I was told by the SA for Dior Dream Skin – After moisturiser before Sunscreen … and that was only because I asked specifically when to use it! I think you may be right about that because they didn’t quite seem to take into account people who wear sunscreen and then makeup. Oh well, there’s a market for everything I guess 🙂
This is ridiculous and just goes to show that big beauty has run out of ideas for “novel” skincare ingredients that actually work. The stuff that works is boring, old (at least 50 years old, if I’m not mistaken), pretty cheap and may be available on prescription only (in some cases). As I keep saying time and time again, just stick with sunscreen, stabilised vitamin C and A, glycolic acid and some nice-to-haves (green tea, hyaluronic acid, actual laser procedures) and you should be able to maximise your skin’s potential.
That said, most consumers are terribly vain but don’t want to appear too vain as to visit a dermatologist for proper aesthetic procedures that actually work (and you have someone accountable if the results you get are not up to par. And most people will only stick with a product that gives instant results, so this type of “cheating” is sure to be right up their alley.
Well said!
You’re right Firn. I don’t get this and now that others have reminded me, we have been seeing this makeup in skincare phenomenon over the years but not as prominently as now. Must be all the requests for “instant results”. Everyone wants something instant these days. Whilst I personally don’t go to derms, I don’t deny a good skin doctor will be the best thing to spend money on vs something with optical ingredients.
Hey P,
Initially I had a same concern, whilst they are optical ingredients in the sense of us looping it into the make up category, it doesn’t actually leave a stain/tint to the skin. Dreamtone actually rubs off clear, I did a wet wipe test run after applying it onto my skin and there was no “colour” per say.
The # also represent the best ingredients for each skin type – african, asian, caucasian. In theory they all work the same but the ingredients are skewed towards our ethnicity.
Hope that helps. 🙂
Thanks for clearing it up Val! For what it’s worth, I tried the same trick with the Dior Dream Skin and it wipes off clear too. It’s quite interesting that you mention that the # refers to ethnicity because now I’m curious if we’ll actually see the Dark or Light one sold here since those are the minority. Hmm…
I see what you mean! I tried the Vichy Idealia version that’s like this, but you know I really liked it a lot! I kind of thought of it as a primer. Loads of primers have supposed skincare benefits too. It worked really well under makeup, keeping it on and gave that extra glow factor that I like. So, maybe this could be considered the same thing? Although, it’s pretty pricey! The Vichy one is affordable.
Ah I knew there were others before this and yes! Idealia! I remember it was a big thing back then but we don’t get it here hence my missing out on it. Knowing that Vichy is so much more affordable, I wouldn’t have minded giving it a go as a glowy primer if nothing else. But for the more expensive Lancome or Dior? Hmm… will take a LOT to convince me
I actually got suckered into getting the dreamtone at the lancome counter a few weeks ago (was replenishing tonique comfort ) and got the one thats in a set . Truth be told , it doesnt do anything for me . At first , it brightened up my complexion after applying it and I thought this serum is working , etc , but a few days later broke me out for some strange reason. Didnt know it contained mica and pigments (and also high quantity of alcohol too) until I did some research on it.
Ahh you got Dreamtone! I did read of people breaking out from it possibly due to the alcohol levels. That said, because I break out from both Genifique and Visionnaire, I’m a little hesitant to try this one but maybe I’ll test a sample when we get it.
Yeah , go get a sample first . Not worth it to splurge on a product that might or might not break you out ( tons of experience on this.. which is sad haha) . I used to shop the lancome market a few years ago but I think their products are deteriorating . But thats my opinion and I might be very wrong (?).
I can’t say coz I haven’t used Lancome properly. For some reason their skincare didn’t quite agree with me except for Primordiale night cream, and then they got rid of it -_-” Everything else has broken me out so far so I’m very wary about trying their stuff to be honest!
I actually bought Dior’s Dream Skin in a spur of the moment without much thought and without really checking it out – and before your post on Estee Lauder’s new Lotion – D**n those “round up to nearest RM100/- to get that RM10/- vouchers” (with husband and kids waiting for me to finish buying) moments.
As I am already stuck with it, I’d probably use it alternately with Capture Total Serum in the day. The SA however did say the Serum is daily skin care. Can use Dream Skin as an added effect (ahem) for special days.
Addendum – I just tried Dream Skin this morning – over my normal skin care under my foundation. Looks smooth.. looks more even.. feels smooth..
I am probably overdoing it but since I have already bought it (*thud thud * Hokkien term is “long piak” – banging (head) against wood, for now, I am treating it as a very expensive make up base before foundation.
Haha actually it’s pretty much a primer, JK. I checked with the SA and you’re to use it over moisturiser before sunscreen so when I asked if it was pretty much like primer, the answer was yes. Sigh…
Oh my… haha… How are you liking it? I got a sample of it the other day and was told to use it as the last step over moisturiser before sunscreen which makes it sound suspiciously like a primer >.< It did seem to help my makeup stay on better and I'm told it controls oil better. Hmm... primer territory right there!
I thought exactly the same when I used the sample of Clinique Even Better Eyes Dark Cirle Corrector. It should be “treating” the dark circles, but it is tinted has “glitters” in it. So what I though was that it is only creating an optical illusion, not treating! I was happy that I got to use the sample first. Thank you for shouting out loud! The so-called skin care products should not defeat people… Loves!
Ooh glitters in skincare is such a no-no right? I remember the Estee Lauder Idealist Illuminating serum had it too and I was quite put off by it. I don’t suppose this’ll make me popular but someone has to put them in place right? 😉
Hey Paris, I also run away from stuff like this. I dislike skincare products that contain any kind of light-reflecting particle because it just feels…. weird. It’s not the kind of brightening I want from a skincare product, and it just feels really dishonest in a way. I read through the ingredient list of Dreamskin, and it is simply not something I’d consider a skincare product (way too silicone and alcohol-heavy). I might give this sample sachet a whirl as a primer, but that’s really about it.
Once you figure it out, it just takes all the wind out of your sails doesn’t it? I give them less credit than they deserve just because they tried to fool me >.< I got a sample tube of Dream Skin and you're right. It feels heavy and siliconey and while silicones don't bug me, the concept just weirds me out!
me too, i don’t like it either. that;s why i never liked tinted moisturizer either, cause i feel that it’s just weird. if i wanted to moisturize, i would use a moisturizer, and if i wanted to have some light coverage, then i would use a bb cream. i don’t wanna mix the two. that;s why i found the garnier dark circle eye roller with pigment weird too.
Tinted moisturiser as a substitute for moisturiser (and anyone actually BELIEVING it) bugs me a lot but as the original BB cream, I like it for the light tint as makeup. Then again, there are also those who will believe that a BB cream is all you need – toner, moisturiser, sunscreen and foundation in one *facepalm*
I think this kind of products have their use, in the morning per example, as a mix of skincare and optical improvement. Wrinkles can only be treated at best with retinoic acid and other acids (as AHAS, or ascorbic) help, as well as sunscreen, so most beauty products relay in a visual improvement. I personally think is fine as long as the consumer knows it. The Lancôme product also contains jasmonic acid, the “real” active (problem is, the lack of studies is laughable…), so is a mix. I’m young but if I had wrinkles I’d use this kind of products with no doubt, besides retinoic they are the only and best option. The problem, as I said, is many just doesn’t know what they buy. I consider the brand must be somewhat clear but I also think one as an individual must be responsible for one self.
However I get what you mean, it’s just that I consider skincare can be both treatment and embellishment, there’s space for everything.
Greets.
Thanks for the input! I don’t deny there is a market for it as many people do want the convenience of having skincare and making it look like it’s working almost instantly but I do wonder at the over-reliance on something as gimmicky as this. Still, I suppose I’m a little traditional in this sense 🙂 I prefer that everything is kept separate for them to work at their most efficient 🙂
I really liked this post! I actually prefer my skincare products to be just skincare 🙂
A little OT -but not that much-I’ve recently talked with an italian girl that lives in France and she told me that there was a documentary about how brands under the same mother company basically just put out the same products varying packaging and little more.
I already knew this and I did found some resemblances -in texture at least- among L’Oreal Color Infaillible and Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill. Having said that, I found out that Vichy’s Idealia Serum should be pretty much the same thing as Lancome’s Dreamtone. I haven’t tried them so I’m not sure but if you’re considering to buy Lancome one you may want to try the Vichy first or in place of the other 🙂 Hope I was helpful and not too off topic. x
Thanks S 🙂 Actually you are right about the big brands in the same family sharing technology. Usually the premium brands get the technology first eg. Lancome and then they’ll slowly release it down to the lower end brands e.g. Loreal which is why for a while, all I used was L’Oreal products because I figured, why should I pay more for similar ingredients? LOL This was especially true of the sunscreen. Lancome’s UV Expert was almost the same as L’Oreal UV Expert and I could buy 3 tubes of the latter for one of the former. I am told the pricier brands do get a higher concentration of the effective product to justify the prices I guess but still, if on a budget, lower end brands in the same family are always a good choice. That said, I think Vichy and La Roche Posay, despite being under the L’Oreal umbrella, are much more effective and even better than their high end brands!
i don’t like to have makeup component in my skincare products! How weird is that? Does this mean i need to remove my skincare products using makeup remover? Why can’t it simply be pure skincare products? Why does one ( i’m referring to cosmetics/skincare companies) need to be so greedy? Are we so desperate to even need to “trick” our other halves at night that we look “better” in our skincare products (in sour mood now..and i might have ranted a bit here) haha
That was my question Anne! I did ask the lady at Dior when I took a sample of Dream Skin if I could use it at night and she was quite hesitant. I thought it strange too! 😀 Then again, maybe people want instant results so this gives them the “optical illusion” of an instant result 😀
I use a zinc oxide sunscreen that I’ve found to also provide blurring effects ( probably from the high level of zinc oxide used) and in the past I’ve also used tinted zinc oxide sunscreens ( or I would look like a ghost) so i shouldn’t be bothered – but I still am!
I guess I could accept it with the sunscreen because the cosmetic effect is a side effect/ makes the skincare ingredient usable. I can’t really accept it if is just to make the consumer think their skin is better when it’s not.
Like you, I’m less fussed if the optical ingredients are in sunscreen. I’m also jealous that you can wear sunscreen with high zinc oxide because I can’t! Breaks me out something awful 🙁
I haven’t tried anything like this other than your typical BB creams claiming to have skin benefits, but my feelings are simple: Skincare with makeup = makeup. That’s it. If it works well as a makeup item then I would consider using it, but it would never replace a regular skincare routine.
I can’t speak for Dreamtone, but I was told by the SA at Dior that Dream Skin was to be used after moisturiser. It does feel rather like a primer and based on what I’ve been told, performs like one. Sigh. Wish they’d just market it as a primer and be done with it
I don’t like skincare products with makeup in them. I want them to help my skin, not to simply hide the problem. There’s concealer for that, and it’s less expensive.
Haha well said Gio! I’d go the route of a concealer or even foundation if I have to instead of trying to fool myself
I thot these products are quite cool. They let us fake it till we make it. Of course if there are tints and powders in it, its better that we take off before bed. 🙂
Haha faking it till you make it 🙂 It does make sense except when will you know you’ve made it if you’re using it daily? Hmm…. 😉
I’m not sold either. I don’t understand the need for light-reflecting particles in skincare. Maybe it’s a trick to make it seem as though it’s working immediately than actually giving you the results many weeks or months later? But then that would be dodgy, wouldn’t it? I tried something by Estee Lauder last year or the year before last and it contained similar light-reflecting whatnots too. I immediately saw it as makeup and only used it during the day despite it being a serum that is used at night.
Yep, I think it’s the answer to all the requests for instant results. Gosh, if instant results is what people want, just go for laser or medical treatment already! You’re right about the Estee Lauder Idealist Illuminating serum thingy. I remember complaining about it then and besides, it wasn’t good either 😛
hmm… I do not want skin care that “creates the impression” of a good skin but skin care that makes my skin good. I am reluctant to try skin care with makeup elements but perfectly fine with makeup that contains skincare benefits.
I have an emulsion that contains SPF, the girl told me that I do not need to use make remover and can use it in the night before sleep, but I just don’t feel comfortable with it, hence it is only for day use and I always make sure I remove it before I hit my bed.
I have found that the SA sometimes aren’t aware or don’t tell us how we should properly use a product. Like in your case, a product with SPF would be targeted at daytime use so while it can be used in the evening, it doesn’t serve any other purpose and unless we thoroughly cleanse our skin in the morning, can potentially clog the pores.
Exactly. Sadly, many of them don’t really know what they are selling/ don’t understand the product at all but just sell blindly to those who are not so “well-informed” of the use of products.