If you abhor and shy away from goods that are “Made in China” you may find your doors closing to a large number of luxury or designer goods. What we don’t know and may never know is that there are a large number of brands that manufacture their mainstream items in factories in China, primarily to keep the costs down. The luxury business (and to a large extent, the cosmetics business) is, after all, all about the bottom line.
Here’s a book I’d recommend you read, whether or not luxury goods are your thing – Deluxe : How Luxury Lost Its Lustre. It is an eye-opener and an insight into the commercial world that governs most brands and will also help you understand to an extent, what you are buying into. I was gifted this book by a similar luxury loving friend and I’ve read it twice now. Has it made me enjoy my luxury purchases any less? Well, no. What it has done is made me more aware and perhaps, just more picky 🙂
The book isn’t quite about luxury bashing either. I initially thought so, but it is an interesting analysis of how the brands (and marketing) have changed our perceptions of luxury over the years. It is however a bit of a whine at “It never used to be/look/feel like this”
What started out as designer and true couture is now pretty much mainstream. I just need to take a walk in a mall to notice a proliferation of brands being toted about, and the proliferation of designer stores. I’m not saying its a bad thing – I sometimes am one of those toting something around 🙂 – but what I have noticed is that in recent years, the local market seems to be more aware and more likely to buy an original as opposed to a fake product, which is where the accessibility comes in. That is, to me a good thing because as this book also touches on, the counterfeit market is a huge one, and oft times goes to fund unsavoury activities.
What I enjoyed the most is the back story behind some of the biggest and most coveted brands we see today – Hermes, Prada, Dior, Chanel and naturally, Louis Vuitton all have a feature with their back story and how their image has been crafted over time to be at the pinnacle of luxury as it is perceived today. If not for the tycoons selling their vision of luxury today, some of these brands may never have survived and I think that would be a pity.
It is insightful and it opened my eyes to the marketing tactics used and in many ways, made me pay attention to how these commercial tycoons are working their sleight of hand. Buying into the fragrance and cosmetics ranges of these brands is just our first taste of this world of luxury – it is a way of allowing more people to own a piece of the brand.
As I said, reading this did not make me covet or enjoy luxury goods any less. It just made me more aware of what I’m buying into and to allow me to make that decision for myself, and to realize and perhaps even resist the marketing tactics bombarded at me. Its also made me much pickier about what I purchase and where I purchase my goods from.
Has luxury lost its lustre for me? Well I’ll say no. I never knew the luxury of the days of yore, when one stepped into hushed stores and had the designer personally attend to your every need, hence I don’t miss nor yearn for those days. The perception of luxury has changed over time, but that is just how we progress in this global age. And as is grudgingly admitted, it is also thanks to haute couture that we have stores like H&M, Topshop, Mango, Zara and the like to cater to us mere mortals who can’t afford haute couture but want something similar and wallet friendly.
So long as I’m not putting myself in the poor house nor running up a debt to rival the National Debt, I’m happy with the accessibility of luxury today because it means everyone can have a piece of it – depending on how deep your pocket is. I think a bit of luxury is better than no luxury at all.
Do you enjoy your bit of luxury? Have you read Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Lustre and if you did, did you enjoy it? It was a bit whiny in parts but overall was an interesting read.
Paris B
A big ‘YES!’ from me! I do appreciate every single luxury piece that I own. 🙂
I’d like to read that book myself! Could you let me know the book’s name and author, please? 😉
Stupid me! Lol..
Hey Jess, it’s in the first picture above!! *knock knock my head*
Haha Glad you found the answer Jess 😀 And I appreciate every single bit of luxury I own too 🙂
Love this post! Would want to get the book myself 🙂
Its definitely worth a read!
I like this book. First saw it at the $5 bookstore, bought one for me and Geek. I read it on the plane to Malaysia. Passengers next to me would have seen me gasp a whole lot at some parts of the book 😛
It’s interesting to read how these luxury brands have their leather goods manufactured in China and how they use leftover material to make the under-the-counter stuff.
Hmm time to re-read the book 🙂
The first time I read it, I just skimmed through, thought it was interesting but didn’t quite make an impact. I just finished it again recently and this time, I paid a bit more attention to it, and it just resonated with me much more now that I’m on a bag ban. Helped me decide it was probably the right thing to do LOL! 😀 For now anyway
I have heard from my brother in-law who works in the trade and finance industry that China has kept its currency undervalued for many years because it’s main growth is in exports. If the Yuan was allowed to appreciate, Chinese imports will not be able to compete with US made goods. The sad reality is that many people in the West lost their jobs and livelihood when manufacturing moved to more cost effective locations. Sorry, didn’t mean to turn this into a world economics topic.
Personally, I have no qualms about goods and products made in China but I do question their work ethics and labour laws. I will draw the line when I need to pay a ridiculous premium price for, oh, a designer bag or something. With the money I’m expected to pay, it better be made by the magical fingers of a French or Italian artisan who has honed his/her craft for many years. At least, that’s what I’d like to think happens when I plonk my money down 😉
Luxury has not lost its shine to me. I have a huge appreciation for lux goods and as long as I can afford it, I will keep buying. Some people think I’m insane for spending so much on a bag, or a pair of shoes or makeup and beauty products, but it’s not as if I’m shirking my responsibilities (savings, household, work, etc.). So yeah, treat yourself but spend wisely and don’t drive yourself into debt.
On a side note (and I promise this is the end to my drivel), they used to say the same about goods made in Japan back in the 70s and 80s. But look how far they have come now.
I’d read about the undervaluation of the Yuan too. Its the only way they can keep their market competitive because the world economy is falling down around our ears! Lots of people in the US and Europe lost their jobs when the factories were moved to China and I believe only the real artisans manage to keep theirs – those who work with exotic skins and customised goods in particular because those have to do with talent and skill and just maybe a certain pride in their work.
Like you, I balk at paying premium prices for certain goods. Part of the reason I buy leather from certain ranges/brands and not any other material. But that said, we just never know what is made where anymore. You could have the main part of your bag, clothes or shoes made in China and someone in France fix the handle/button/sole and it could be labelled as Made in France. This is basically what this book tells us – its down to market perception and the company’s bottom line because luxury is now a HUGE business.
I have no doubt about the skill of the Chinese workers – the long history and culture of China doesn’t get wiped out just like that. But I do think they have a ways to go before they generate the same sort of quality as the Made in Japan goods have now a reputation for. Culturally, there aren’t the same ethics and really, its all about money these days so the more corners get cut, the higher the profits are for everyone. Sad fact but true.
As long as a product is completed in a certain country, they can claim it to be made there… … It’s like Singapore. A lot of companies have only their final touchups done on this island, but they stick the Made in Singapore label, because we are known for certain values, as in something made here is definitely clean and safe… …
That’s how manufacturing works.
Indeed, its a little loophole that allows people to get away with the “Made in (insert reputable country here)” tag – ah well, unless we’re in the line, we’d never know what the truth is eh?
I’m a sucker for this behind-the-scenes sort of book anyway, so if I see this title for cheaps or free I’ll read it since it’s been out for about 5 years now…
To answer your question: Nope, still not drinking the LV-Prada-etc kool-aid. I rather have something not everyone else is toting around, it just kills me that way..
Do keep a look out for it – its an entertaining and insightful read. Some facts may dismay the die hard luxury fans although I can see some non fans would love saying “I told you so!” 😉
I agree with Lyn that if I were to plonk down say, 5 figures for a luxury good, it better handcrafted/made in Europe/magical unicorns danced on top of it with glitter dust (OK maybe not the last one). I think it’s good that a lot of people now get access to items that were once considered luxurious; however sometimes seeing the proliferation of LV Neverfulls and Gucci totes have killed the lux of that particular brand for me. It makes me aspire to get Chanel instead. Hence, to round it up, luxury hasn’t lost its lustre for me either, but if I see luxury brands becoming a tad too common, that particular brand starts losing my interest.
Luxury for me also means ethical. I wouldn’t purchase an article knowing that it was made under abhorrent circumstancese. E.g. as a high-end sports brand, when the Nike child labor scandal made waves, I made a conscious decision not to purchase any Nike items – it’s not luxury per se, but expensive, good quality sportswear to me. I hope I made sense :s.
I don’t even know if Chanel is even still made in France anymore and these days, I have also noticed more and more people toting a Chanel bag of some sort which tells me people are a) more affluent and b) more willing to spend. I like LV’s leather ranges – the quality is there for some lines and designs. Not all though have that touch of mastery e.g. rolled handles vs straps so I’m very particular about what I buy these days. The Neverfull is what I believe to be LV’s biggest joke at the consumer’s expense. A large, relatively affordable (by luxury standards) bag in highly recognizable canvas print and thin insubstantial leather straps at minimal cost. I don’t hate the design but I can see the wool which they have pulled over the consumer’s eyes. But its the dream as the book points out. We all have that one step to take and if the Neverfull is it, I guess that’s the step one takes – after all, LV hasn’t gone the route of fragrances and cosmetics to make it more accessible to the masses 🙂
To be honest, I don’t think luxury and ethical belong in the same sentence. We do not know the circumstances of the workers unless they are disclosed, like that of Nike. But Apple has pretty shoddy ethics when it comes to workers and they’re still selling their gadgets like hot cakes. I think people are a bit harder on luxury brands, but there is a whole world of ehtical abuse out there across the spectrum that I don’t think only luxury brands should get the short end of the stick. Just 2 sen 😉
hahahahahah! I like what you say about the LV Neverfull!
I was disgusted with a colleague who spent her first bonus on that. She is so petite, but chose LARGEST Neverfull. Like, for what? Merely to show you got an LV (which is exceptionally aunty-ish, imo, for that particular model, and colour on a person my age).
And yes, a lot of people in Singapore bombing their first pay or first two months pay on an LV. So common. Everyone in the mall has one now.
Even the once rare Prada black scrunchy one with just the Prada in gold has become exceedingly common.
Sometimes I am not sure if that shows Singapore is getting super rich or becoming luxury slave… …
I think I was a bit harsh on the Neverfull but its really mostly because its become that symbol of “look I’ve got a designer bag” instead of being of practical use like Monstro and Peach_ have pointed out. I did notice a high proliferation of designer goods in Singapore when I was there and its getting to be that way here too. I think its a little bit of both that you say
Just wondering is this a new edition? Cover looks different from the books that I google – books published in 2007. Please let me know. I’m very interested in reading this book. Thank you!
Yep this is the Penguin 2007 edition but I believe Dana Thomas only has this one in this exact title so the cover doesn’t matter 🙂
I do spend money on bags – but I make sure mine are made in Europe, not China!
Some brands are more transparent about it than others – makes it easier to choose 🙂
Wow!! Very interesting book, me want to read it too! Yay! 😀
I truly appreciate every bit of the luxury I own as well. I agree with Lynn too. Anyways, surprisingly enough to see a lot of replicas of most luxury bags are at least 90% similar to the originals. Sigh. I still don’t support the unethical manufacturers (you know which country I am referring to ya? 😛 )
That is the Speedy 25 right? 😉 Love it to bits and hope to get one soon 😛
Haha yes indeed you eagle eye! Its really small though so do think about the 30 or at least try it on for size before committing – I wish I’d gone with the 30 before
LOL Yes, the 30 is just nice though 😀
Well, you can still add it on your wishlist 😉
Oh yes! The real thing is always better than the replica my dear 🙂
I can’t get the 30 anymore, it’ll just be excessive 😛 Oh do consider the Epi range too. The Speedy in Epi is delish!
LOL Yes yes, Epi is delish. Especially the Epi Speedy 30 in Ivory colour.
Well, actually I was hoping that they have the Speedy in Mahina or Empreinte leather range and with bottom protective studs, but won’t happen anyways, so there you go, mine all still sitting on the wishlist 😛 (self-comforting LOL)
Wow a Speedy in Mahina would be super lux! Its meant to be a bit slouchy which might explain the lack of studs though but yes the Mahina range is out of my range 😛
LOL Out of your range? You are still as humble as ever 😛 I am sure it will be within your range soon, in time to come 😀
Ah wouldn’t we all love that? 😀 Although if the Mahina range is within range, so would be the Hermes yes? 😛
LOL Yes to Hermes as well 😛
Yes, do try to get hold of it, because its a very insightful read 🙂 I must say though that nothing beats the feeling of actually owning the real thing instead of a replica yes? 😉
My dear Paris, do you still order books from the Book Depository? I would most probably order this book from your affiliate link 😀 Yay!!!! Hope it won’t take months to reach me though 😛
Sorry am late, but yes, I do still buy my books from book depository. Haven’t made an order in a while though 🙂
LOL It’s ok dearie, no worries. I have placed my order on 22nd and already dispatched on 24th. Yay! Hopefully will reach me within a month 😀 Maybe earlier since I have ordered through the affiliate link of yours, heh heh 😀 Thanks dearie 😀
looks like a good book to read. I am not a fan of luxury brands (probably because I can’t afford too much of those yet) but I will love to know more about them! Thanks for the book suggestion! =)
Its a good read and maybe an eye opener so when you are ready to take the plunge, you’ll know what to look out for 🙂
Oh no, I LOVE my LV Neverfull! (dodges bullets) Is it silly of me to say that I bought it because I just loved the design? I just don’t like anything fussy, and the simplicity worked for me.
I do enjoy my little luxuries, but I try not to succumb to them as much as possible. After all, I now have an actual human child to feed… 😀
I agree with you PB that ethical abuse is across many other products and industries. I mean, I don’t even want to think about what makeup brands do in terms of animal testing….but I guess that’s a whole different discussion.
Must pick up the book though, very curious to find out more, thanks for the rec!
LOL!! I actually remember your Neverfull story that you told me once before 😀 I don’t hate the Neverfull per se because by all accounts, its a practical design but I do dislike that LV makes a ton of money on them (minimal leather) and how everywhere is awash with it because everyone treats it as an entry level LV. That said, the Speedy too went that way once except its accessibility is now superseded by the Neverfull – why pay more for a little bag when you can pay less and get a huge one! 😀
I’m fussy, if they’re making the “luxury” goods in countries other than their traditional origin i.e. instead of France and Italy, they are making them in China, they should reduce the prices. The only reason they have moved is so they can use cheap labor and have less oversight, thus increasing their profit margin but giving us lesser quality goods (but claiming they are the same). There’s a difference between products made by groups of craftsmen with generations of experience and those that are not. I’d rather save and pay the higher cost of a crafted handbag (in this case).
Ah well, this is the point the book addresses – that its all about the bottom line so they won’t drop prices, just drop their costs so their profits are higher 🙂 We, the consumers will have to be a wee bit more savvy making our choices then 😉
I love a bit of luxury! For me I love a designer bag. I love how it is made with love, instead of on a factory line. I love how some brands still make their bags by hand, not by machine. Great post! I’ll have to read the book
Yes do read the book – just be prepared to have some bubbles popped! 🙂
have not read the book (would love to) but do know a bit about what’s going on with these luxury stuffs. luxury or not, i only buy what i really like and looks good on me which most of the time ends up being a luxury piece. it’s for my own satisfaction and not to show off for the world to see. when meeting friends who can’t afford these goods, i don’t wear or carry them.
I like your philosophy – we should all be the same. Buy what makes us happy and hang what others think or want to think 🙂
Ah. I love that you blogged about this. I think Friday last week, I texted a friend cos I’ve loaned this book to him (almost a year ago) to convince him fashion is not just fun and frills. There’s the cut-throat business side of it. Anyway, I wanted the book back 😛
And despite all that, I don’t think it’ll stop me from buying luxury items. I’d be a lot more picky with brands, (e.g. have avoided LV even the epi line for a couple of years now) design, leather type and colour and colour of hardware. If it was a unique one-of-a-kind seasonal release e.g. x number of units in Australia/worldwide, I’d give it serious thought. Otherwise, I’m pretty happy with the bags I own and other than the one I’m coveting (cough! cough!), don’t think I’m getting anything at the moment.
I’m also baulking at LV because of Bernard Arnault’s underhanded methods in attempting to own a slice of Hermes. I understand that it IS the nature of business but the sneaky and dirty method employed without a single shred of respect for artisans is really disgusting. (and yes, I do know, LVMH owns Dior too :P)
Dom, sorry to say, the Chanel classic flap has been done to death and anyone who’s anyone seems to tote one. Having said that, I’d still like to own one one day perhaps in a unique seasonal colour (buttercup yellow anyone?). Maybe after I’ve exhausted all options in getting the Kelly? 🙂
Having read this book (thanks to you!), it has made me a lot more picky about the products I buy and makes me question my rationale why I buy them. I think its healthy. At least I’m not doing what I did a couple of years ago where I was just in this giddy fog 😀 Now I know I have some pieces I cherish and which are well made and which I enjoy and that I think is what really matters in the end.
Also, have you noticed the deteriorating quality of dust bags? LV is a prime example. I used to have this felt really soft pouch in a lovely beige and the newest one is a nylon plastic feeling piece of cloth that looks like it came from some pasar malam. That alone is enough to put me off 😛
a book to pickup! 🙂 shall go look see at mph soonish~
I’m not sure if its at MPH but you can find it on bookdepository.com I think 🙂
okie, will go check there too 😀
I enjoyed this book, too. It makes business sense for these brands to branch out to become “more common” by ways of less expensive lines, cosmetics, etc., but they still maintain a more haute couture line, not to mention one-of-a-kind order-made for the truly lucky ones. 😀 I don’t think luxury has lost its luster, at least not in the grander scheme. Luxury isn’t just about bags, and I know many who have the wealth for all but choose to steer away from these brands since it’s just not in their taste.
You and Jyoan seem to really dislike the Neverfull lol. I used it throughout my student days just for school, and yes, in the largest GM size. It was useful to me since it’s huge enough to carry large books and laptop for several classes at once, and I particularly wanted a non-leather canvas bag to lighten the weight. It’s truly durable, which is a must for heavy books, but easy to throw things in in a rush, into a bicycle basket, etc. 🙂
Yes indeed! Luxury is so much more than just bags (although I love how the book tells us that the bags is what is raking in the millions for the couture houses!) although I personally have yet to branch out of the bags and cosmetics elements. Sorry about disliking the Neverfull >.< I like that you got it for a practical reason but over here, its just done to death because its really a relatively affordable bit of luxury that is very noticeable so I see too much of it. I don't think any less of anyone for owning one though because it is a personal choice, just that I wouldn't, personally speaking 🙂
It’s interesting that the idea of ‘luxury’ can be scaled down to a level that it becomes accessible to many (then again there’s nothing wrong with making it just that little more achievable). These days though, I think it’s doubtful that quality commensurates with the price tag as the production quality is questionable at times. The luxury houses are more like mass production outfits with the number of products manufactured every year. It would be doubtful if artisans of the day could cope with the existing demands of today’s consumer.
As an aside, I’m not a fan of the Neverfull. Sorry if I’m offending anyone by saying this as I feel it looks like a glorified beach or diaper bag plastered with logos. Not something I equate with luxury when I see it being toted around town.
Ah fashion is so love or hate but I too do not feel anything for the Neverfull 🙂 I think much of the perception of luxury these days is in the marketing so I really have to take my hats off to the corporations for their success! But I have to agree with you too that no artisan these days would be able to keep up with the demands of today’s consumer. That must be why there’s still that infernal waitlist for the Hermes bags that they say are still made by hand, and few people can afford (or are patient enough to wait for it) 🙂
Paris dearie
Besides this book, any other books to recommend? I am trying to draft my dissertation topic ie. brand strategy of Louis Vuitton or something like that 😛 Am in the midst of searching related journals online 😀 I guess besides journals and articles, I can include books as well LOL ! 😀
xoxo
Hmm I don’t know of others to be honest. A friend sent me this one. If I come across something I’ll let you know!
LOL! Thank you my dear. Appreciate it to bits 😀 muacks! xoxo